Nikon still has the manual here.
A photo that was on the SD card when I got the camera.
I’ll do a separate “Phound Photos” post. The card had images from 14 Dec 2012 to 11 Jul 2013.
Nikon still has the manual here.
Update 20 Jan 2020:
I emailed SodaStream with two questions. I didn’t save the emails so I can’t quote exactly.
1) Where are the dishwasher safe bottles? If you searched, you got a hit for the bottles at the SodaStream site (they’ve fixed this for the US site, a UK hit still shows up). If you went to their site and browsed for them, there were no dishwasher safe bottles. They answered that they no longer make the bottles. Kudos for fixing the site and for responding honestly and quickly.
2) I asked them to improve the labeling. I don’t know if they will but they wrote that they wanted to keep their customers happy. They asked for my address and sent me two of the correct bottles for free. I didn’t even have to pay shipping.
I have no financial interest in SodaStream. I don’t hesitate to nuke companies when they treat me poorly so it’s only fair that I offer praise when I’m treated well.
Back story: I stopped drinking sweetened sodas a long time ago but I still polish off about a liter a day of plain or flavored/unsweetened fizz water. That adds up money-wise and worse, it’s a lot of plastic. Santa Fe has a decent recycling program but it’s at the mercy of the market and it only takes one lazy moron to contaminate the drop-off dumpster and divert a lot of material to the landfill. M had given me a SodaStream Jet a long time ago. I used it for a while, got lazy, and stopped using it. For the new year, I decided to find more ways to reduce my footprint and dug out the carbonator.
Like the Konica Tomato/Pop-10, the brightest f-stop is the only one given in the manufacturer’s literature. Unlike the Tomato, I couldn’t find information on line so I had to do it myself.
If you don’t care how I arrived at these values and trust a random web page, here’s a table:
These values are rounded to the nearest whole stop. YMMV. Not responsible for ruined shots, hives, divorce, or any negative outcome resulting from the use of this information.
The camera is dark gray or black but the LED lights made it look blue.
Trusting that 35mm really is the focal length and f/4 really is the brightest f-stop:
35mm / 4 = 8.75mm diameter with the lens wide open.
The area is what’s important for exposure. Focal length/diameter=f-stop only holds for circular apertures. For most, I treated the shapes like diamonds and used (b x h)/2 for the area. To keep things simple, I cropped in to the edge of the lens and then resized to 875 pixels so 100 pixels is one millimeter. Once I had an approximate area, I used the equivalent circle area to get a diameter. SensorsOne has a great calculator so I could just plug in the area instead of using a calculator and working backwards from area=π r² every time.
With the broken rollers and pinholes in the bellows, I felt like this camera didn’t get a fair shake. This will probably make more sense if you see the original post first.
I had some unopened film in the freezer…
Here’s the film:
I haven’t repaired the bellows so I wrapped it, similar to the job on the Kodak Six-20.
One final note. It’s pan film, as in panchromatic, but the color sensitivities are interesting. And… never mind the cats knocked the balloons off the chair so I can’t map the colors. Any way, the colors are interesting. More testing to come.
I forgot to add it has the standard lighten/darken control around the light sensor.
It was super windy and the old 400mm definitely does not have image stabilization. I got lucky during a short lull.
I’ll try some exposure stacking – bracketing gave me some good sky-dark mountains and the reverse.