The site with the lens construction info:
The manual is under Manuals & Ephemera.
I’ll do a separate post about the failed 1st roll. I ended up having some fun with it.
In the above two images, I like the barbed wire and fence receding into the distance in the first one. I also like the focus on the vehicles in the second one.
The background colors were “meh” and there were some weird red flares on the wall so I desaturated everything but the table.
Nikon still has the manual here.
A photo that was on the SD card when I got the camera.
I’ll do a separate “Phound Photos” post. The card had images from 14 Dec 2012 to 11 Jul 2013.
Update 20 Jan 2020:
I emailed SodaStream with two questions. I didn’t save the emails so I can’t quote exactly.
1) Where are the dishwasher safe bottles? If you searched, you got a hit for the bottles at the SodaStream site (they’ve fixed this for the US site, a UK hit still shows up). If you went to their site and browsed for them, there were no dishwasher safe bottles. They answered that they no longer make the bottles. Kudos for fixing the site and for responding honestly and quickly.
2) I asked them to improve the labeling. I don’t know if they will but they wrote that they wanted to keep their customers happy. They asked for my address and sent me two of the correct bottles for free. I didn’t even have to pay shipping.
I have no financial interest in SodaStream. I don’t hesitate to nuke companies when they treat me poorly so it’s only fair that I offer praise when I’m treated well.
Back story: I stopped drinking sweetened sodas a long time ago but I still polish off about a liter a day of plain or flavored/unsweetened fizz water. That adds up money-wise and worse, it’s a lot of plastic. Santa Fe has a decent recycling program but it’s at the mercy of the market and it only takes one lazy moron to contaminate the drop-off dumpster and divert a lot of material to the landfill. M had given me a SodaStream Jet a long time ago. I used it for a while, got lazy, and stopped using it. For the new year, I decided to find more ways to reduce my footprint and dug out the carbonator.
They’ve expanded the product line a lot and there is a bewildering array of options.
By mistake, I bought the 1L Slim instead of the 1L Classic bottles. For whatever liability reason, the bottles are not returnable. A 2-pack is $20. Buying (licensing actually) a new gas cartridge was another $30. If I bought another set of the right bottles, I’d be in for $70 and have 2 plastic bottles I don’t want or need.
Have to read the fine print. Not that I remembered the model name any way.
The threads are the same on the slim bottles so I just have to be able to get it into the machine. Enlarging the hole to insert the bottle through the bottom would mean removing a lot of plastic and the swing-out mechanism releases the pressure for unscrewing the bottle.
I used a coping saw for the vertical cuts, a razor knife to score, and pliers to snap off the plastic (it’s pretty soft). A little touch up with some 200 grit sandpaper and it fits.
Like the Konica Tomato/Pop-10, the brightest f-stop is the only one given in the manufacturer’s literature. Unlike the Tomato, I couldn’t find information on line so I had to do it myself.
If you don’t care how I arrived at these values and trust a random web page, here’s a table:
These values are rounded to the nearest whole stop. YMMV. Not responsible for ruined shots, hives, divorce, or any negative outcome resulting from the use of this information.
The camera is dark gray or black but the LED lights made it look blue.
Trusting that 35mm really is the focal length and f/4 really is the brightest f-stop:
35mm / 4 = 8.75mm diameter with the lens wide open.
The area is what’s important for exposure. Focal length/diameter=f-stop only holds for circular apertures. For most, I treated the shapes like diamonds and used (b x h)/2 for the area. To keep things simple, I cropped in to the edge of the lens and then resized to 875 pixels so 100 pixels is one millimeter. Once I had an approximate area, I used the equivalent circle area to get a diameter. SensorsOne has a great calculator so I could just plug in the area instead of using a calculator and working backwards from area=π r² every time.
The last one was still approximated to a diamond but I had to be more accurate as the apertures got smaller.
Not much to show. The rest of the not-too-destroyed-by-light-leaks images are in the video.
With the broken rollers and pinholes in the bellows, I felt like this camera didn’t get a fair shake. This will probably make more sense if you see the original post first.
I had some unopened film in the freezer…
Here’s the film:
100 pack film is 3.25×4.25 inches so this is a little too tall to fit in a film pack. I trimmed it in the dark bag. My cutter won’t fit in the bag so I used scissors. It came out as an irregular quadrilateral rather than a rectangle but it fit.
I haven’t repaired the bellows so I wrapped it, similar to the job on the Kodak Six-20.
The setting for original pack film on the camera is ISO 80 but Fujifilm FP100-C works without adjustment. From what I can find (not much) the GAF Versapan was ISO 125 when new. I’ve had it frozen but I don’t know its history so I figured it lost some speed. I got it backwards in my head and adjusted the Polaroid’s exposure dial to darken about 1/2 click. It is a bit dark but I didn’t have to do much post-processing, just cropping and dust cleanup, so I think this film is still ISO 100-ish. Developed for 5 minutes in HC-110 dilution B (1+31). I’ll have to do more testing. Now that I know it works and have a rough idea of speed, I can make 116 film and use some more ancient cameras!
One final note. It’s pan film, as in panchromatic, but the color sensitivities are interesting. And… never mind the cats knocked the balloons off the chair so I can’t map the colors. Any way, the colors are interesting. More testing to come.
I forgot to add it has the standard lighten/darken control around the light sensor.
Only seven images including the ones in the video. I used three testing another camera.
It was super windy and the old 400mm definitely does not have image stabilization. I got lucky during a short lull.
The teleconverter loses 2 stops plus the filter material I had left over from the eclipse. Mercury is at about 1:00. Not great but comparable to the live stream from the Griffith Observatory. I may be alive the next time it’s visible from North America but who knows? Best to grab it while I can.