It’s not actually a Polaroid except for the film back and the rollers but I don’t know how else to categorize it. I loaded film before I realized just how little information is out there for this camera. When I finish the pack, I’ll open it up and see if there are any markings on the inside. I can measure to get the aperture but the shutter will be difficult — it only fires with film loaded.
I like not being under the camera-a-week time pressure. The button battery had gone dead so I missed a lot of shots fiddling with the date every time I turned it on. I had the luxury of getting a battery and taking the camera with me for another week.
I don’t know that I’d seek this camera out as a keeper but for small prints and digital work, it’s nice. Native resolution is 2272X1704. The effects, sepia, B&W, etc. are just OK. Manual controls, including focus, are great.
Imgur.com changed their interface recently. It introduced a bug (at least in Safari) where the title doesn’t update when the picture changes.
I was showing a coworker how to bring up his iTunes purchase history (he got an email about buying a book he didn’t buy). Looking at my history, everything is correct. When I click on “Music” and then “Purchased” there’s a brand new U2 album in my work account.
I pasted the stuff back in, added a PS rant about the error that cleared the form data, changed the subject to match the first email, and “Continue” worked.
Not being Microsoft isn’t good enough any more.
Sadly, the sensor kept getting worse. The camera rarely powers up working now. A pretty good time to wrap it up and post some results.
All of the IR photos are ISO 100, f/2, and 1/60 second. I chose a low ISO to keep noise down and the f-stop and shutter are the camera settings in “Night Shot”.
Oops, left the camera in macro and they were too far away. I had to sharpen again.
IR does strange things with eyes. Hers are dark brown and look blue. Mine are blue and come out black.
When I get the new sensor, I’ll post about the repair.
Flex the cartridge a few times to crack the seams.
Most of the edges come apart pretty easily but there are some “welds”. The top (label right side up) is the hardest part. The back (label side) overlaps the inside by about 5mm and there is a glue weld inside the overlap. You might get lucky, you might have to use a knife or razor blade, or, like my first one, you might mangle it. It’s still usable, I just have to use more tape to seal it.
The old film will be really curly. I saved it for testing frame spacing and used a piece of the paper as fixed film backing.
Most of the articles I’ve read skip this part. You can go without but the focus will be a little off. A lot of Instamatics had pretty soft focus from cheap plastic lenses. It depends — do you want to embrace the Lomo-style effects or try to take a “good” photograph?
After smoothing the tape and giving the cartridge a good dusting, it’s time to get things ready to go into the dark. I use a changing bag but anywhere you can work in total darkness is fine.
I haven’t seen other articles where the supply side was put onto a spool. It made it a lot easier for me to get it rolled properly.
My dark bag checklist:
- cartridge front and back
- 35mm film in the cartridge
- four precut pieces of studio tape attached in order to a small ruler
Go slow, turn off your phone, and give the cat some snacks. You want to be able to do this by feel without distraction.
The in-the-dark sequence from my written notes:
- cut the 35mm leader
- tape film to supply spool
- wind film and cut from 35mm cart.
- tape film to take-up spool
- assemble and close 126 cartridge
- tape take-up side of 126 cart.
- tape supply side of 126 cart.
- put the film in the camera and close the back
I decided to cut the 35mm leader in the bag so I could pull enough to make it easy to tape to the supply spool without exposing a couple of frames. The tape pieces were pre-measured for taping to the spools and holding the ends of the cartridge together. I felt for the short spool pieces and went left to right along the ruler so I got the right piece for each step. Because the cartridge was somewhat mangled, I decided to tape the camera back light-tight instead. The top and bottom edges of the cartridge would be a pretty precise tape job in the dark bag.
After pulling the camera out of the bag, I used more studio tape on the seams of the camera back.
I’ll do another, shorter, post about actually using this kludge in the camera.
This is the end-ish of the 52 Cameras Project. I’ll still be posting but I won’t hold to anything near a camera a week. A lot of cameras need TLC, I have a documentary photography class coming up in October, and a lot of projects need a push to get into production.
Not bad for a camera that was low-end 37 years ago. I’ll do a post about reloading 35mm film into a 126 cartridge later. I only had time to use the 35mm adapter in the scanner. The image overlaps the lower sprocket holes on 35mm film.
Scanned with the CanoScan 9000f at 4800 DPI using Image Capture.app and resized to 15% for upload. No idea why, but the Canon software overexposed everything.
We all know that Kodak’s strategy was to get cheap cameras into everyone’s hands and make money from film and processing sales. It doesn’t matter. The effect was still beneficial. Almost everyone has an awful snapshot that’s a meaningful part of their personal history.