I forgot to turn off a Google reminder. Kind of glad I did since the images are from Atalaya Mountain, just like the last Konica photos.
Atalaya, six years ago.
Say it in my head and count syllables on my fingers.
From work. Uh, can you wash my windshield? A pterodactyl $#@! on my car.
I hate meetings and doodle a lot to stay sane(ish).
Atalaya Mountain — i love the way the light hits the needles.
Looking west across the Rio Grande valley.
Blossoms in La Mesilla.
Zoe going for the “people water”.
Blossom silhouette.
Trinity with her wheat grass.
A breeze shook the branch and made a nice soft effect.
Close up it looks like the flamingo is crying.
For lending me the camera — Thanks Dave!
Amazing collection of Kodak catalogs at Kodakcollector.com.
A clarification: The camera could be as late as 1934. The catalog years overlap — 1932-33, 1933-34, 1934-35. The 34-35 catalog is the first one to show the “Action Front” push button bed release. The 32-33 catalog is the only one that explicitly states the camera is available in black or brown but I don’t know if later model years had the color choice. If it is from 33-34, the doublet was the low-end lens with an f/6.3 or f/4.5 anastigmat as an upgrade and a Diodak shutter option which added 1/10 second to the speeds of the Kodon.
View of the Truchas Mountains.
The scalloping at the top of the next image is from re-spooling the film. I didn’t have it perfectly parallel to the 620 spool rim so the film & paper came off at an angle and wrinkled.
No idea — it looks like water.
Taken with the tape and poster board seals. Still leaked.
Trinity in the sun. Instax with the tape/cardboard seals.
Trinity on the sun porch. No leaks!
Dark room and an LED flashlight inside show just how leaky the bellows is.
Sketching out the “over bellows”.
Getting the cardboard between the bellows and the folding front was a challenge. Good view of the aperture setting: U.S. 8=f/11, 16=f/16, 32=f/22, 64=f/32.
Nothing like a closeup to show how dusty it is.
I thought I was done here.
The back is 6 X 9cm and the front is sized to let the Instax frame slide in.
Instax Mini adapter.
I still got light leaks between the top and body. I tried yet more tape before giving up and shrouding the whole thing with my dark bag.
Getting kind of silly with the tape.
I don’t have a proper darkroom so here’s the process. I taped up the Instax film box to use as a transfer station.
I got turned around a couple of times and loaded the Instax frame with the image side towards the lens. I burned through most of a box of 10 prints to get two OK images but it was still a lot cheaper and faster than using negative film (re-spool, reload, process) for each iteration.
I walked around Santa Fe while my car was being serviced. This chicken was hanging out in a bush by the sidewalk.
“Brickface Hope” by James Tyler.
Window in downtown Santa Fe.
Beautiful old Pinzgauer.
Bulb and writing with the cats’ laser pointer.
Sleepy Zoe. Mostly shots of the cats on this roll. Handheld at f/1.7 at ~ 1/30.
Goober. Handheld at f/1.7 & ~1/30.
Goober with flash. F/16 & 1/90 at 3 feet*.
F/1.7 = tiny depth of field. I tried to focus on Trinity as she came towards me. With the shutter so slow it’s hard to tell.
I darkened everything but her eyes. Lemonade!
One more of Zoe just because I like it.
I turned on the den light & remembered the camera was on the tripod just outside the window. I thought I’d ruined the shot and stopped the exposure at about 10 minutes.
Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. Here’s the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.
It’s pretty easy to get inside to the shutter. The first tear-down was more thorough — I removed the insert that goes from the back of the shutter to the film plane and disassembled the viewfinder. There are two screws inside the light-tight chamber.
Four screws on the front.
This copper (brass?) provides the friction to hold the Inst/Time selector. It will immediately fall out.
Two screws at the front of the viewfinder.
With the VF hood up, the whole front will tilt upwards.
The four front screws also hold the lens board — it pops right out.
Without the shutter cocked, you can’t really see the part the selector works.
This bit that sticks into the body is the culprit.
The triangular piece coming in at the left selects “instantaneous” or “time”.
Two screws hold the top of the shutter assembly.
One screw at the bottom.
Not sure why but the bottom screw (right) is different.
The side has the rod that cocks the shutter from the wind knob and the flash contacts.
Cocked and pressing the button, you can see the selector doesn’t move up and down but in (Inst) and out (Time).
It’s a two-piece shutter. The red opens followed by the rear that closes. The triangle holds the rear open.
I thought this wasn’t pressing down enough to allow the rear shutter to close.
Bad alignment but I bent it down. It also increased the friction.
It really is one of the brighter viewfinders I’ve seen. L-R reversed.
I included this to show the film edge markings.
Blurry from the shutter sticking but I kind of like it.
Super-blurry but I like this one too.
I did a digital graduated filter on this one to boost the shadows on the bottom.
Serengeti cheetah — photo by Judy
Sandstone mesa near Los Alamos, NM
Jamapa Glacier, Pico de Orizaba
PDA at the Women’s March in Santa Fe
Kodak High Contrast Copy Film
Type 5455 to be more specific
Information is pretty sparse for this film. I found a datasheet for “Recordak Micro-File Film Types 5455 & 7455” that seems to be the stuff.
Not knowing how to properly read a film datasheet yet, I searched around and found some info on Type 5069 and started there. If it’s similar, this film was originally rated for ~ ISO 25 (or less — specs for microfilm film are strange). Bracketing my first 24 exposure roll, this stuff is about ISO 6.
Tree bark. Nikon FA set to ISO 25 and +1 exposure compensation (ISO 12).
Cloudy sky through the trees.
Wormy wood.
I used Kodak HC110 developer dilution ‘B’ at 68F for 6 minutes, agitating the 1st 30 seconds and then 5 seconds every 30 after that. Definitely too much agitation for this film. I got nasty over-development marks at the sprocket holes. Next time I’ll try a much weaker dilution, less agitation, and longer time. I’ve also read that highly dilute Rodinal works well and Photographer’s Formulary makes TD-3 for techpan films. I still have about 97 feet so it will be fun to experiment.
I used Canon Scan Gear for the first two and VueScan for the last one.
Once I learn what I’m doing with this film, I think it will turn out some great exposures.