I glossed over a lot of the features, face detect, in-camera effects like sepia and saturation, exposure compensation besides bracketing, etc. Even Sony divided the information into a setup guide, instruction manual, and handbook — probably 250 pages worth.
Interesting that both rolls, shot about a year apart, are partly shot at the Santa Fe National Cemetery. Some moiré pattern on the 1st image here – I must not have had the film secure in the negative holder.
C-41 developed in B&W chemicals with no color correction.
She knows me too well.
Lots of grain & scanner noise but nice color and exposure.
Kodak Tri-X 400, develop by 12/2016. I bought it new and it’s been frozen. Developed in HC-110 H (1+63) for 9 minutes at 68F. Scanned on the CanoScan 9000f at 2400DPI. I used both Canon’s software and Vuescan and picked whichever version I liked better. The bird bath in the video is a merged image from both.
It’s only fair — I took a picture of the Franka with the Photura
I think the vignetting is not entirely the camera’s fault. I was pretty close with 400 film and the Vivitar flash I used didn’t actually have the combination of speed and distance on its chart so I kind of winged it and used f/32.
The wedding bouquet after a few weeks
The junk at the top is from over-agitating during development.
Playing with the double exposure
Zoomed in to clean up dust specks, I noticed Jem’s face in the branches (screen grab PNG).
I finally caught up with all the slide film I shot last fall. This is not the Retrochrome/expired Ektachrome. This is fresh Fujichrome Provia 100F.
Scanned at 4800DPI on the CanoScan 9000f & resized for the web.
FPP Retrochrome (Ektachrome). Scanned at 4800, color corrected, and shrunk to 1024 on the long side for the blog.
Rio near Embudo
My sweetie at the Rio
Hard to balance. Ektachrome is way less sensitive to red and somewhat less to green than blue.
These are screen grabs from GIMP.
The top image above before any edits
Decomposing to the individual channels gives some interesting insight. This creates a gray scale image for each color channel representing the strength of that color’s contribution to the image as a value from 0 (black) to 255 (white). Obviously, the amount of each color mostly depends on the subject matter.
Red: very dark = low values
Green is a lot stronger but maybe not as much as you’d expect. The line of trees behind the shore plants are juniper and piñon.
Blue is as strong or stronger than green, even for the green plants.
Blue is about what I’d expect a conversion to black and white to look like. It’s that overwhelming in this film.
The FM operates just fine without batteries — just with no metering.
The frame counter (36 max) is on the top deck just in front of the wind lever.
The LEDs in the viewfinder are used as a battery check.
Film speeds are from ISO 12 to 3200. Full stops are numbered (100, 200, …) with dots for 1/3 stop increments (e.g., 64 & 80 between 50 and 100).
Lift and turn the shutter speed knob to set the film speed.
The back can be removed for an instant or bulk film back.
The gallium photodiodes for metering are located in the eyepiece module rather than in the pentaprism. EV1 to EV18.
The meter is 60/40 center weighted — 60% given to the center 12mm and the remaining 40% to the rest of the image in the viewfinder.
No dedicated mirror lockup but it goes up when the self timer is used.
And… even reading the manual, I got the LED meanings wrong. + or – means more than 1 stop off. Center dot and + or – means 1/5 to 1 stop off.
From the manual. Derp.
Film Photography Project’s “Retrochrome” is expired, cold-stored Kodak Extachrome. Ektachrome is pretty cool, color-wise, even when fresh.
Goober behind the screen. Removed some blue.
Dragon kite. Removed some blue and bumped the saturation a little.
Low fall sun through the leaves. Color corrected and tweaked the levels.
I added another image of Goober (2 versions) because it was a funny struggle to get the colors right. The white sheets were really cool (blue). I tried tons of different tweaks and it was either still too blue or over-corrected and orange. I played with filters while I decided whether to not use the image or just convert it to black and white. Most results were “meh” but I like this solarized one.
Solarized Goober. Very black light poster.
Finally, just goofing around, I chose the “skin tone” filter. It’s supposed to correct skin tones that look wrong, usually because of lighting. I clicked the dropper icon on Goober’s face and, like magic, the colors in the image were right.