A YouTube viewer asked about the parallax error when using the clip-on optical viewfinder. I did a quick & dirty experiment to find out. Original Quicktake 200 post is here.
The 3 focus ranges are 9-13cm for close-up, 45-90cm for portrait, & 90cm-infinity for landscape. The manual says, “IMPORTANT Do not use the close-up focus when you use the viewfinder. It is not accurate.” I didn’t bother with the close up setting but the next worst parallax would be the nearest focus of the portrait setting. The manual also says, “Estimate the focal distance from the front surface of the LCD screen to the object being photographed.” The LCD is on the back so I guess they mean its surface.
I put this on the wall in the kitchen.
I put the camera on a small tripod, and measured the distance to the wall so the LCD was 45cm away. I looked as straight through the viewfinder as I could and held still while M slid her finger along the ruler toward the center until I could see it. We repeated that for left, right, top, and bottom. The measurements are just relative to each other, not meaningful in themselves.
Left: 29cm, Right: 67cm, Top: 10cm, Bottom: 37cm
Next, I snapped a picture with the camera in the same place. Ignore the date & time – I didn’t set the camera’s clock.
The image captured these measurements.
Left: 28cm, Right: 60cm, Top: 13cm, Bottom: 38cm
I was a little off reading the ruler. This diagram shows the relationship of the viewfinder view and the sensor image.
The viewfinder graphics are a screen grab from the amazing Photography in Malaysia site.
Second roll – expired Kodak T-MAX 400.
Fujifilm Fujichrome Provia 100F.
The “Phound Photos” post for this camera: http://exit272.com/?p=4897
The site with the lens construction info:
The manual is under Manuals & Ephemera.
I’ll do a separate post about the failed 1st roll. I ended up having some fun with it.
In the above two images, I like the barbed wire and fence receding into the distance in the first one. I also like the focus on the vehicles in the second one.
The background colors were “meh” and there were some weird red flares on the wall so I desaturated everything but the table.
Nikon still has the manual here.
A photo that was on the SD card when I got the camera.
I’ll do a separate “Phound Photos” post. The card had images from 14 Dec 2012 to 11 Jul 2013.
Not much to show. The rest of the not-too-destroyed-by-light-leaks images are in the video.
With the broken rollers and pinholes in the bellows, I felt like this camera didn’t get a fair shake. This will probably make more sense if you see the original post first.
I had some unopened film in the freezer…
Here’s the film:
100 pack film is 3.25×4.25 inches so this is a little too tall to fit in a film pack. I trimmed it in the dark bag. My cutter won’t fit in the bag so I used scissors. It came out as an irregular quadrilateral rather than a rectangle but it fit.
I haven’t repaired the bellows so I wrapped it, similar to the job on the Kodak Six-20.
The setting for original pack film on the camera is ISO 80 but Fujifilm FP100-C works without adjustment. From what I can find (not much) the GAF Versapan was ISO 125 when new. I’ve had it frozen but I don’t know its history so I figured it lost some speed. I got it backwards in my head and adjusted the Polaroid’s exposure dial to darken about 1/2 click. It is a bit dark but I didn’t have to do much post-processing, just cropping and dust cleanup, so I think this film is still ISO 100-ish. Developed for 5 minutes in HC-110 dilution B (1+31). I’ll have to do more testing. Now that I know it works and have a rough idea of speed, I can make 116 film and use some more ancient cameras!
One final note. It’s pan film, as in panchromatic, but the color sensitivities are interesting. And… never mind the cats knocked the balloons off the chair so I can’t map the colors. Any way, the colors are interesting. More testing to come.