images and such will be here
I did cover the exposure sensor and not the flash sensor when I tested the flash. In the video I put my finger over the wrong one. The exposure sensor tells it whether to fire (and what f-stop/shutter combination to use) and the flash sensor tells it when to stop the flash if it fired.
Something I forgot in the video: The guide number (GN) of the flash isn’t given but the manual does give a range, 0.9-3m (~3-10 feet).
The light calculator: https://toolstud.io/photo/light.php
About Light Value (LV) vs. Exposure Value (EV): As I understand it (and I’m mostly self-taught so chime in on the YouTube comments if I’m way off), at ISO 100 LV and EV are the same. Light value is how much light is present in the scene. Exposure value is how much light you’re letting into the camera. At ISO 100, it doesn’t matter which you use because that’s how the units are set up. ISO 800 film is 3 stops (100 to 200 is 1, 200 to 400 is another 1, and 400 to 800 makes 3) faster than 100 so the EV is 3 stops lower than the LV – it takes 3 stops less light to give the same exposure to ISO 800 than it does for ISO 100.
Good article: http://www.konicafiles.com/slr-bodies/-konica-fs-1-1979/
My description of the VF meter displays was as clear as mud.
Here’s a link to the manual: https://www.butkus.org/chinon/konica/konica_fs-1/konica_fs-1.htm
I paid too much for a Polaroid 80A kit because it had a “Polaroid Land Pictures” album with these shots in it. The 80A used Type 30 instant roll film and made images 2 1/8″ tall x 2 7/8″ wide (5.4 x 7.3 cm). Polaroid stopped making Type 30 film in ~ 1979. It might be a good candidate for conversion to 120 roll film. It’s not instant but it’s something.
Images scanned at 1200DPI on the Canon Canoscan 9000F and resized to 1024 wide for posting. I’m still tweaking the M42 bellows and I don’t have a good copy stand for prints any way.
The prints have serial numbers and frame numbers on the back so these are from 3 separate rolls.
I know I can buy a bellows, either an old M42 or a new really expensive Novoflex, but that’s no fun. Besides, this one was too beat up to use as-was, so it was either repair/modify it or recycle the aluminum and landfill the rest.
There wasn’t much room for captions in the video and they go by pretty fast so here are the 1st pass results for how much magnification I get with the 75mm enlarger lens:
Bellows retracted all the way: 0.66… (2/3).
Bellows fully extended: 1.92.
The test shots were done on a full-frame Sony A7. Full-frame is 24mm high X 36mm wide. I just tested vertically and took photos of a ruler and counted the visible millimeters. 24mm would be 1:1 (life size). It’s not terribly accurate since I had the camera & bellows angled on a tripod and hand held the ruler but close enough for a go-no go check.
I’ll add images and more rigorous test results or link to a new post if it gets too long.
The manual is still available from Canon.
Modes available from the mode dial: Manual, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program Auto Exposure, Auto, Easy, Movie Digest (makes a movie from stills), Scene modes (see below), Creative Filters (see below-below), Movie (or set up preferences in the menu & hit the red button).
Scene Modes: Portrait, Landscape, Kids & Pets, & SCN. SCN has menu options: Handheld Night Scene, Low Light, Beach, Underwater (requires housing – this camera is not waterproof), Foliage, Fireworks, & Snow.
Creative Filters: Super Vivid, Poster Effect, Fish-eye, Miniature, Toy, Monochrome (actually pretty nice), Color Accent, & Color Swap.
Canon 60D, ISO 1600, f/2, 15 seconds, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC (HSM).* The lens is 48mm equivalent field of view with the 60D’s 1.6X crop factor. For meteors, a wider lens is better but this is what I have in sharp, fast glass. I got a couple of meteor images at 30 seconds but the stars are little glow worms.
First, I desaturated the red channel on selected stars.
Next I used the Focus Magic filter to undo some motion blur (about 7 pixels). I’m using a demo version and still learning my way around it. It tends to oversharpen but I think that’s more a function of my ignorance than anything wrong with the algorithm. The demo is nice. It doesn’t cripple the software or add a watermark, you just have a limit of 10 images.
Pixel-peeping to see how well the blur removal worked, I found more red halos and did another round of selective red desaturation.
In GIMP, I adjusted the exposure to -0.750. An un-adjusted image comes up with exposure ‘0’. I’m not sure what the units are but I tweaked to taste. The trees lost a little glow but the sky looks more like what my eyes saw. I’ll probably play some more. If anything worth seeing comes out of it, I’ll update this post.
* This lens is discontinued. I got mine as a Sigma factory refurbished lens when the model was still current. Some “new old stock” is available depending on mount and mint used ones can be picked up inexpensively. The newer version is part of Sigma’s “Art” series. It costs a bit more (MSRP $499) and is tweakable with their USB dock.
Oops, left this post hanging in draft status.
I have no financial interest in pixl-latr or any of Hamish Gill’s endeavors. I just like the blog and bought a pixl-latr.