You know how sometimes you don’t remember how much you like something until you start telling someone else about it? I hadn’t used this camera for more than auto-everything snapshots in quite a while. I was getting reacquainted with an old pal so this is a longish post.
From the oddly specific files: There is a Flickr group dedicated to “display of your macro/supermacro photos taken with the new Canon SX10 PowerShot IS”.
Super Macro only works at 5mm (28mm equivalent).
I had the coin on a bright white background and the lens was about 1cm away. Once that was set up I realized it was almost impossible to light it. Just because you can put something right up against the lens doesn’t mean you should. I used a camping headlamp with three super-bright LEDs shining in from the side. With that kind of contrast, from dark to completely blown-out, and a wide open lens, I pretty much set it up to fail. It is crisp enough to show me the coin is really dusty.
A nice tutorial on cleaning up CA using Photoshop Elements (or CS*) is here.
After macro-fest, I installed CHDK on the SX10’s SD card. It has huge number of features but two I’m already using are live histogram and RAW. I’ll do a separate post after I play with it some more.
Sorry this is late. We had to replace M’s grandmother’s refrigerator. No biggie except the ice maker is a kit with instructions so generic that they make no sense in the context of actually installing it into a physical-reality-in-front-of-you refrigerator. Nothing matched the drawings and we quadruple-checked that we had the right kit. Think of the most complex Ikea thing you’ve assembled and add plumbing and wiring.
Any way, on to the camera.
This is an awesome camera. I saw what I thought was hyperbole on the Impossible Project pages. Really? Yes really. It’s a freaking folding, instant film, SLR! I may not be able to revisit this camera within the time constraints of the 52 Cameras project but there is a lot of potential using 600 film and ND filters to have much finer control over exposure.
Using a GE Flashbar II (~ 30 years old) with no exposure compensation or Photoshop adjustments.
Used the same flash bar. The bulb going off melts the plastic a little.
The perils of using a camera for one pack (or roll) — you don’t get used to the film format or the quirks of a particular camera.
I cleaned the battery crud out of the Wards flash and got it working only to discover it doesn’t physically fit the Alpha 1. I had to use the flashbar again.
I’m no stranger to Photoshop but I couldn’t get rid of the magenta shadows on the statue. Even when the black bag showed black, the shadows on the figure were purplish. Ganesha is the Lord of Obstacles, not just of removing them, so maybe I have something to learn from this.
This is a fun little camera. My shots so far aren’t great but I can’t blame it on the equipment.
I don’t remember the film used for this first shot. I’ll have to pull out the negatives and find out. Some serious light damage to the bottom edge so it’s cropped. The camera doesn’t leak so I think it was during drugstore processing.
28 June 2014 update: The first roll was a 12 exposure of ISO 400 something. The edge of the negative has “V 400” and “XJ603” but I haven’t found any reference other than someone else asking the same question. I think it was expired Kodak VR. The second roll is Fuji 400.
The next two are from a different XA using Ilford XP1 400.
I cut out a lot of “um” but I still say “cool” too much. This is the last of the got-ahead cameras so it’s back to near-real time.
Kodak Gold 200 film.
I don’t expect much from drugstore processing but this was just awful. Low-res, noisy, and they actually managed to introduce dust. Bleh.
Processing/scanning SNAFU aside, this is a nice camera with a super-sharp lens.
The ‘L’ series had a lot of variants over the years including a waterproof, manually (zone) focusable version, the Nikon L35AW AF, the macro (0.45m) Nikon L35 AF-3, and many features were incorporated into the sought-after (and expensive) titanium-bodied 35Ti and 28Ti.
Some things I like better than the Canon AF35M: Focus lock on the shutter switch, ISO 1000 vs 400 (on newer L35AF models), exposure compensation, and a pre-shot distance zone indicator needle in the viewfinder. The Canon is four years older so this isn’t really apples-to-apples.
The manual (Hooray for Mike Butkus!) says holding the flash down is OK.