Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. Here’s the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.
It’s pretty easy to get inside to the shutter. The first tear-down was more thorough — I removed the insert that goes from the back of the shutter to the film plane and disassembled the viewfinder. There are two screws inside the light-tight chamber.
Four screws on the front.
This copper (brass?) provides the friction to hold the Inst/Time selector. It will immediately fall out.
Two screws at the front of the viewfinder.
I completely removed the VF during the cleaning tear-down to get to the lens and mirror. The VF hood is a pain to get back in its slot so don’t do it unless you have to.
With the VF hood up, the whole front will tilt upwards.
The four front screws also hold the lens board — it pops right out.
Without the shutter cocked, you can’t really see the part the selector works.
This bit that sticks into the body is the culprit.
The triangular piece coming in at the left selects “instantaneous” or “time”.
Two screws hold the top of the shutter assembly.
One screw at the bottom.
Not sure why but the bottom screw (right) is different.
The side has the rod that cocks the shutter from the wind knob and the flash contacts.
Cocked and pressing the button, you can see the selector doesn’t move up and down but in (Inst) and out (Time).
It’s a two-piece shutter. The red opens followed by the rear that closes. The triangle holds the rear open.
I thought this wasn’t pressing down enough to allow the rear shutter to close.
Bad alignment but I bent it down. It also increased the friction.
Holding the triangle down with a small drill bit, the shutter worked at the instantaneous setting every time. Bending the selector seemed to work but it isn’t reliable. I’ll go inside again and report back here.