Random Post For 17 April 2017

I forgot to turn off a Google reminder. Kind of glad I did since the images are from Atalaya Mountain, just like the last Konica photos.

Atalaya, six years ago.

Atalaya, six years ago.


I used M's tSay it in my head and count syllables on my fingers.ypewriter.

Say it in my head and count syllables on my fingers.


From work.  Uh, can you wash my windshield?  A pterodactyl $#@! on my car.

From work. Uh, can you wash my windshield? A pterodactyl $#@! on my car.


I hate meetings and doodle a lot to stay sane(ish).

I hate meetings and doodle a lot to stay sane(ish).

52 Cameras: # 127 — Konica CF35 EF3




Heavy noise reduction on all. I hope some of it is scanner noise rather than grain so I can re-scan at higher resolution on a couple of them.
Atalaya Mountain -- i love the way the light hits the needles.

Atalaya Mountain — i love the way the light hits the needles.


There was a weird dust splat and I did a little color correction on this one.
Looking west across the Rio Grande valley.

Looking west across the Rio Grande valley.


Color correction for the old film.
Blossoms in La Mesilla.

Blossoms in La Mesilla.


Boosted the mid-tones. The noise reduction tends to make things look flat and this could’ve used flash.
Zoe going for the "people water".

Zoe going for the “people water”.

52 Cameras: # 125 — Kodak Six-20

For lending me the camera — Thanks Dave!

Amazing collection of Kodak catalogs at Kodakcollector.com.

A clarification: The camera could be as late as 1934. The catalog years overlap — 1932-33, 1933-34, 1934-35. The 34-35 catalog is the first one to show the “Action Front” push button bed release. The 32-33 catalog is the only one that explicitly states the camera is available in black or brown but I don’t know if later model years had the color choice. If it is from 33-34, the doublet was the low-end lens with an f/6.3 or f/4.5 anastigmat as an upgrade and a Diodak shutter option which added 1/10 second to the speeds of the Kodon.



View of the Truchas Mountains.

View of the Truchas Mountains.

The scalloping at the top of the next image is from re-spooling the film. I didn’t have it perfectly parallel to the 620 spool rim so the film & paper came off at an angle and wrinkled.

No idea -- it looks like water.

No idea — it looks like water.

Taken with the tape and poster board seals. Still leaked.

Trinity in the sun.  Instax with the tape/cardboard seals.

Trinity in the sun. Instax with the tape/cardboard seals.

Trinity on the sun porch.  No leaks!

Trinity on the sun porch. No leaks!




That’s it for posted images taken with this camera. About the kludges follows.

Dark room and an LED flashlight inside show just how leaky the bellows is.

Dark room and an LED flashlight inside show just how leaky the bellows is.

Sketching out the "over bellows".

Sketching out the “over bellows”.

Getting the cardboard between the bellows and the folding front was a challenge. Good view of the aperture setting: U.S. 8=f/11, 16=f/16, 32=f/22, 64=f/32.

Nothing like a closeup to show how dusty it is.

Nothing like a closeup to show how dusty it is.

I thought I was done here.

I thought I was done here.

The back is 6 X 9cm and the front is sized to let the Instax frame slide in.

Instax Mini adapter.

Instax Mini adapter.

I still got light leaks between the top and body. I tried yet more tape before giving up and shrouding the whole thing with my dark bag.

Getting kind of silly with the tape.

Getting kind of silly with the tape.

I don’t have a proper darkroom so here’s the process. I taped up the Instax film box to use as a transfer station.

  1. Put the film in the box.
  2. The box and camera go into the dark bag. Remove the film, remove one frame from the cartridge, insert it in the holder in the camera, and put the cartridge back in the box.
  3. Meter, carefully take the camera out of the bag, and shroud everything but the lens and shutter trigger.
  4. Take the shot and put the camera back in the bag.
  5. Take the frame out of the holder, slide it back in the Instax cartridge, and put the cartridge in the light-tight box.
  6. Put the Instax camera in the bag, load the cartridge, take it out, cover the lens, and shoot it to run the print through the Instax rollers.

I got turned around a couple of times and loaded the Instax frame with the image side towards the lens. I burned through most of a box of 10 prints to get two OK images but it was still a lot cheaper and faster than using negative film (re-spool, reload, process) for each iteration.

52 Cameras: # 124 — Olympus Infinity Stylus Zoom 140




I did a bit of editing on most of the images. It’s from the film (age=grain and loss of speed) and scanner noise.
I walked around Santa Fe while my car was being serviced.  This chicken was hanging out in a bush by the sidewalk.

I walked around Santa Fe while my car was being serviced. This chicken was hanging out in a bush by the sidewalk.


"Brickface Hope" by James Tyler.

Brickface Hope” by James Tyler.


Window in downtown Santa Fe.

Window in downtown Santa Fe.


Beautiful old Pinzgauer.

Beautiful old Pinzgauer.

52 Cameras: # 123 — Minolta XE-5




Fuji ISO 200 film of unknown vintage. Some grain in low light but not bad for being in someone’s garage. Processed and scanned by The Camera Shop of Santa Fe.

Bulb and writing with the cats' laser pointer.

Bulb and writing with the cats’ laser pointer.


Sleepy Zoe.  Mostly shots of the cats on this roll.  Handheld at f/1.7 at ~ 1/30.

Sleepy Zoe. Mostly shots of the cats on this roll. Handheld at f/1.7 at ~ 1/30.


Goober.  Handheld at f/1.7 & ~1/30.

Goober. Handheld at f/1.7 & ~1/30.


Goober with flash.  F/16 & 1/90 at 3 feet*.

Goober with flash. F/16 & 1/90 at 3 feet*.


* With the old Achiever 115A flash, ISO 200 should be at f/22 at 3 feet but the Rokkor-X PF 50mm f/1.7 only stops down to f/16. Exposure compensation wouldn’t help since the exposure is based on the flash duration and the only correction the camera could do would be to double the shutter speed at -1 exposure compensation (to adjust the exposure down to ISO 100 which is on the flash table at f/16 and 3 feet). A -1 stop ND filter would work but I didn’t have one handy. I got lucky with the film’s exposure latitude (or it’s slower because it’s old) and it’s not overexposed.

F/1.7 = tiny depth of field.  I tried to focus on Trinity as she came towards me.  With the shutter so slow it's hard to tell.

F/1.7 = tiny depth of field. I tried to focus on Trinity as she came towards me. With the shutter so slow it’s hard to tell.


I darkened everything but her eyes.  Lemonade!

I darkened everything but her eyes. Lemonade!


One more of Zoe just because I like it.

One more of Zoe just because I like it.


I turned on the den light & remembered the camera was on the tripod just outside the window.  I thought I'd ruined the shot and stopped the exposure at about 10 minutes.

I turned on the den light & remembered the camera was on the tripod just outside the window. I thought I’d ruined the shot and stopped the exposure at about 10 minutes.

Attempted Repair of the Argoflex Seventy-Five

Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. Here’s the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.

It’s pretty easy to get inside to the shutter. The first tear-down was more thorough — I removed the insert that goes from the back of the shutter to the film plane and disassembled the viewfinder. There are two screws inside the light-tight chamber.

Four screws on the front.

Four screws on the front.


This copper (brass?) provides the friction to hold the Inst/Time selector.  It will immediately fall out.

This copper (brass?) provides the friction to hold the Inst/Time selector. It will immediately fall out.


Two screws at the front of the viewfinder.

Two screws at the front of the viewfinder.


I completely removed the VF during the cleaning tear-down to get to the lens and mirror. The VF hood is a pain to get back in its slot so don’t do it unless you have to.
With the VF hood up, the whole front will tilt upwards.

With the VF hood up, the whole front will tilt upwards.


The four front screws also hold the lens board -- it pops right out.

The four front screws also hold the lens board — it pops right out.


Without the shutter cocked, you can't really see the part the selector works.

Without the shutter cocked, you can’t really see the part the selector works.


This bit that sticks into the body is the culprit.

This bit that sticks into the body is the culprit.


The triangular piece coming in at the left selects "instantaneous" or "time".

The triangular piece coming in at the left selects “instantaneous” or “time”.


Two screws hold the top of the shutter assembly.

Two screws hold the top of the shutter assembly.


One screw at the bottom.

One screw at the bottom.


Not sure why but the bottom screw (right) is different.

Not sure why but the bottom screw (right) is different.


The side has the rod that cocks the shutter from the wind knob and the flash contacts.

The side has the rod that cocks the shutter from the wind knob and the flash contacts.


Cocked and pressing the button, you can see the selector doesn't move up and down but in (Inst) and out (Time).

Cocked and pressing the button, you can see the selector doesn’t move up and down but in (Inst) and out (Time).


It's a two-piece shutter.  The red opens followed by the rear that closes.  The triangle holds the rear open.

It’s a two-piece shutter. The red opens followed by the rear that closes. The triangle holds the rear open.


I thought this wasn't pressing down enough to allow the rear shutter to close.

I thought this wasn’t pressing down enough to allow the rear shutter to close.


Bad alignment but I bent it down.  It also increased the friction.

Bad alignment but I bent it down. It also increased the friction.


Holding the triangle down with a small drill bit, the shutter worked at the instantaneous setting every time. Bending the selector seemed to work but it isn’t reliable. I’ll go inside again and report back here.

52 Cameras: # 122 — Argus Argoflex Seventy-Five




It really is one of the brighter viewfinders I've seen.  L-R reversed.

It really is one of the brighter viewfinders I’ve seen. L-R reversed.


I included this to show the film edge markings.

I included this to show the film edge markings.


Blurry from the shutter sticking but I kind of like it.

Blurry from the shutter sticking but I kind of like it.


Super-blurry but I like this one too.

Super-blurry but I like this one too.


I’m still trying to find my Photoshop Elements disk. It’s in a box somewhere. In the meantime, I’ve been using GIMP. The workflow is really different but it’s growing on me.
I did a digital graduated filter on this one to boost the shadows on the bottom.

I did a digital graduated filter on this one to boost the shadows on the bottom.




I have a few shots from disassembling the camera to clean it. I’ll combine those with photos of the 2nd tear-down to fix the shutter and post here. Hopefully followed by another roll of images.


Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. A couple of images and the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.

So I’ve had this film in my freezer for a while…

Kodak High Contrast Copy Film

Kodak High Contrast Copy Film

Type 5455 to be more specific

Type 5455 to be more specific

Information is pretty sparse for this film. I found a datasheet for “Recordak Micro-File Film Types 5455 & 7455” that seems to be the stuff.

Not knowing how to properly read a film datasheet yet, I searched around and found some info on Type 5069 and started there. If it’s similar, this film was originally rated for ~ ISO 25 (or less — specs for microfilm film are strange). Bracketing my first 24 exposure roll, this stuff is about ISO 6.

Tree bark.  Nikon FA set to ISO 25 and +1 exposure compensation (ISO 12).

Tree bark. Nikon FA set to ISO 25 and +1 exposure compensation (ISO 12).

Cloudy sky through the trees.

Cloudy sky through the trees.

Wormy wood.

Wormy wood.

I used Kodak HC110 developer dilution ‘B’ at 68F for 6 minutes, agitating the 1st 30 seconds and then 5 seconds every 30 after that. Definitely too much agitation for this film. I got nasty over-development marks at the sprocket holes. Next time I’ll try a much weaker dilution, less agitation, and longer time. I’ve also read that highly dilute Rodinal works well and Photographer’s Formulary makes TD-3 for techpan films. I still have about 97 feet so it will be fun to experiment.

I used Canon Scan Gear for the first two and VueScan for the last one.

Once I learn what I’m doing with this film, I think it will turn out some great exposures.