Scanned at 2400DPI on a Canon Canoscan 9000f.
Frame numbers are as they came off the scanner and not the film frame numbers.
This was the found roll I developed with the film I shot in the Canon T50. The film base also came out green on this roll. The colors came out well on the scanner except for the red light leak-looking areas. Thinking about it, I used a Paterson tank I hadn’t used before. Maybe I had a leak in addition to the problem with development.
The film is Costco Fujicolor Superia X-Tra 400. Found in a Minolta Explorer. I need to get the model off of it and I’ll edit this.
The whole roll came out. When I shoot with the camera, I’ll put a link so anyone who knows these people or who are these people can contact me and get their images.
Original EOS 750 post at http://exit272.com/?p=1626
With a couple of exceptions, a camera with almost no control isn’t usually one I’d shoot with again. A fellow Youtuber asked if the 750 might gain aperture control using a speed booster. A Speed Booster™ (trademark of Metabones) isn’t available for a full frame camera and not for EOS to EOS. It would mess up the flange focal distance, losing infinity focus. That plus the anti-teleconverter aspect of the Speed Booster™ is more math than I want to tackle to figure out what it would do to the image.
I don’t have a speed booster but I do have lens adapters and old lenses. What will the 750 body do if it doesn’t find an EOS lens? Most modern DSLRs have a setting that allows the shutter to work without a lens being detected for macro tubes, bellows, etc., that break the lens-body communication link. This is a much older camera with no menus but it’s worth a shot.
First up, an M42 screw mount adapter. Nothing is passed through to the camera, it just puts the lens at the right distance from the film (or sensor) plane. A fresh battery, pop on the adapter, turn it on and…
No errors. Promising. In goes a dead roll of film (great for testing transport without wasting film) and the film pre-winds like it’s supposed to. The camera body lets me “take pictures”. The 750 is from 1988 and the EOS system had only been out about a year and a half so I guess it’s not that surprising that the firmware doesn’t have a routine for failing without a lens. ROM space used to be expensive.
I have some craptastic Photoworks film (a 24 exposure roll of “Use by 11/2004” ISO 200) so I’m good to go — just gambling some developer.
I used a Helios 44-2, a beautiful Soviet-era lens. It can be tedious but one of its quirks is what I want for this experiment. It doesn’t stop down automatically. You set the aperture and a separate ring swings between wide open (f/2 in this case) and your setting. This lets you focus on a nice bright image and then rotate the ring to stop down without having to look at the lens.
The 750 does full aperture metering. There is a separate, 6 zone light meter that reads the light with the lens wide open to get the exposure value (EV) so the camera can calculate the shutter/aperture combination.
How it works with an EOS lens. Anthropomorphizing and probably not completely accurate:
EOS body: Hey lens, what are you?
Lens: I’m a 50mm and I go from f/1.4 to f/22.
EB: Open up to 1.4 so the nice human can see what they’re doing.
[ Human 1/2 presses the shutter ]
EB: We’ve got focus lock. EV is just about zero. At 1/125 second I’m reading 2 stops over.
[ Human presses the shutter button the rest of the way ]
EB: Stop down to f/2.8.
[ f/2.8 is 2 stops dimmer (smaller) than f/1.4 ]
EB: Mirror up. Shutter fired. Mirror down. Advancing film. Open up to 1.4 so the nice human can see what they’re doing.
[ The 750 actually sucks the film back into the can rather than advancing but you get the idea ]
If the camera defaults to aperture priority, I’m golden. It’ll meter the scene and pick a shutter speed. If it does some shutter and aperture auto-exposure (AE) voodoo or shutter priority (Tv in Canon-speak), the experiment is toast. AE is bad because it can’t control the manual lens to match an aperture to its chosen shutter speed. Tv is bad because there is no feedback to tell me what shutter is chosen so I can pick an aperture.
Either I got lucky with a lot of exposure combinations or it does aperture priority. This also makes sense. When EOS was introduced, people who’d spent a fortune on the mechanical FD lenses screamed bloody murder. Canon even made FD to EOS converters with corrective lenses in them. With no way to communicate between the lens and the body, the only solution is to do aperture priority or manual (if the body lets you select the shutter speed).
Here’s my process. Turn the lens ring to wide open so the scene is bright and focus. Turn the ring to the f/stop I want and 1/2 press to turn on the meter.
Some macro shots. I’ve had the broken balsa plane and cicada wing forever. Add feathers and a seed and I have a theme. To get some depth of field, I had to stop way down. F/16 was too dark. Not bad exposure dark, just not an attractive image.
Next I tried a Nikon adapter. It has a “Dandelion” chip for focus confirmation but the 750 ignored it completely. It works with a Canon 60D DSLR so it’s probably the age of the 750’s firmware.
I’m not sure what’s up with the flower images (ignore the dust and cat hair — that’s a different issue entirely). It might be the film — the Photoworks stuff has lost a lot of speed from age and tends to make really crummy, thin negatives. It’s also possible my notes are wrong. According to my notes, the first one is at f/2.8 but it’s so thin the scanner had to boost the gain and made it ugly and grainy just to get something.
While writing this, it dawned on me that the bad images are under artificial light. Everything else is outside or on the sun porch. It fits the symptoms if the old film lost sensitivity to specific wavelengths.
The short answer (too late) is: The EOS 750 works well as an aperture priority camera with manual lenses.
Thanks to Salvador for asking a good question leading me to this fascinating journey.
This is from the first roll. I re-scanned on the CanoScan 9000f but it didn’t improve much. I ended up converting to black and white.
I need to start wearing my glasses when I do these videos. I can’t see what I’m doing up close.
A couple of things I thought of after I finished the video:
There’s no rewind release. The same knob you pull to load the cassette is the rewind knob. It’s a good idea to check it to make sure the film tension is OK after you pull it out of your bag.
The shutter is completely uncoupled from the film transport so multiple exposures are easy/easy mistakes to make.
The working bits of the camera were clean even though the body is dusty. I had it in the bag with no lens cap and the lens got crud on it. There is some grain and scanner noise in the darker shots.
There is only one image so far but I’m really excited for a couple of reasons.
I bought a box of old movie films (Super-8 & 16mm) and it also came with boxes of color slides. These aren’t buy-them-at-the-gift-shop slides but photos someone took on various vacations. Inside the big boxes are small plastic Kodak slide boxes with labels written on them. They are somewhat jumbled but the small boxes are labeled with where the photos were taken and the recipient.
It’s a little sad thinking about why the boxes are labeled this way. Was the photographer downsizing in his old age or moving to assisted living (we used to call them “retirement homes”)? Did he die and this is how the slides were to be divided? The movies have extra labels indicating they were digitized. I hope the slides were too before they ended up at a Goodwill.
This is a fairly large collection and from what I can tell, he was a talented photographer. I’m not talking about a Vivian Maier kind of find, but a fascinating puzzle.
The box this slide came from is labeled “Hawaii For Holly”.
It’s a lousy scan but here’s the second reason I’m stoked — I used an old slide duplicator, an “Accura Zoom Duplivar”. I got it when I bought a different lot of equipment. The duplicator had a Minolta SR mount on it so I hadn’t really thought about using it. I was making myself crazy trying to find an M42 to EOS adapter — I have a couple and couldn’t find either — so I used some of my down time while sick this last week to organize the boxes and boxes of stuff in my office. It still looks like a mess but it’s a mess where I can better find things. Any way, putting lens adapters, macro tubes and such into their own bin, I came across the slide duplicator. Checking to see if I could cannibalize parts I realized the Minolta mount is also an adapter. The slide duplicator actually has a T-mount.
I also have, and miraculously found, a T-mount adapter for the Canon. It works but the crop factor (1.6) from the smaller APS-C sensor on the Canon 60D narrows the field of view too much. I’d have to take multiple shots of each slide and stitch them together. I might as well use the flatbed and the whole point is to get away from the cruel tedium of doing slides and negatives on the scanner. The 9000f is a good scanner but the workflow is error-prone and soooooo time consuming omigodjustkillmenow.
Plan C: I have a full frame digital which hasn’t been featured yet on 52 cameras. I also bought a Canon EOS to Sony E-mount adapter.
It’s made up from these bits plus the Sony: EOS to E-mount adapter, T-Mount to EOS adapter, T-mount slide duplicator.
I inserted the slide, held the whole rig up to an LED bulb in the kitchen and pressed the shutter. The focus and light both need a little work but not bad for a quick pass/fail test. The slide duplicator doesn’t really have focusing but it does have settings from 1.0 (life sized) to 2.0 which I haven’t played with yet. Stacking adapters may be introducing some error as well.
I’ll tinker some more and report back here.
They only come on at night.