I did a LOT of color correction on these. The film in the camera in the video is not what I used — that’s a bad roll of Polaroid I use to test film transport, etc. The images are Fuji ISO 400, expired in April of 1997 and it shows. Really grainy and it has a bluish tint almost like expired slide film. I processed this at home (Unicolor C-41 kit) so temperature variation might be part of it. It’s not the camera’s fault.
Cropped pretty far into this so it’s extra grainy. A truck pulled up right when I pressed the shutter.
Another random cat.
The Koni-Omega. A project camera taking a picture of a project camera…
A cool cat scarf M picked up at a pop-up store in Santa Fe.
Jem is so chill.
Dried up roses. I got a lot of mileage out of these flowers as a subject.
While editing the video, I thought of a way to do exposure compensation. The lens is smaller than the glass covering and well above the CdS sensor. A bit of neutral density filter material over the sensor but not the lens and it’ll over-expose. Over the lens but not the sensor will underexpose. I have some 3-stop from using Instax in pack film Polaroids…
The film is Fuji 200 i got with a camera lot from a Craigslist ad. It was in his garage and I have no idea how old it is. Pretty grainy so I did some noise reduction and minor tone tweaks. Processed and scanned by Gold One Hour Photo in Los Angeles, CA.
Eastern side of the Salton Sea.
There were some other tracks but not many.
Lattice above a picnic table — now a good 1/2 mile from the sea.
The film in the video was shot last year. We went back to the Salton Sea again this year and I shot with a couple of still cameras I’ll review shortly.
The film page at Spectra Film & Video shows what they currently have. I got two rolls of the Agfachrome 200D with processing before it sold out and it worked well and the processing was really well done.
Spectra’s telecine can seem pricey but after working on two 8mm projectors and an editor just to be able to look at the film, it’s feeling cheaper and cheaper: Shooting video of the projection looks awful. Neither scanner is suited to a reel of film of any size. Kludging a slide duplicator is a possibility but that’s going to take forever to shoot frame by frame.
I have 3 or 4 other cameras, a mix of 8mm and Super-8, plus a bunch of found 16mm reels, so I have to decide whether to: A) farm it out, B) buy something, or C) make something.
A has the advantages that I don’t have even more clutter, I don’t put in a bunch of time, it’s done by professionals, and I only spend the money when I have something. But, it’s expensive.
B is a one-time investment, but it’s time consuming, good telecine gear is also expensive & I don’t want to do conversions for others for it to pay for itself. And more stuff to store.
C is cheaper in money but time consuming to design and make it. A good design could be set it and forget it once it’s built. I love a challenging project but I have several in line ahead of it.
Probably A or C or a mix of A and C. I’ll let you know.
The scanner at work, a Canon print/scan/fax thing, was giving me bad reflections from the clear plastic on the Instax frames so i had to adjust. They’re underexposed to start with — f/256 is pretty dim.
Tusker and Melon — my WPPD contribution.
Some of M’s pots.
My kludge of a darkroom…
Foam core poster board painted black on the window.
Black craft paper and tape around the door. Towel at the bottom.
It worked, it was black-black. Then I remembered when I bought a guy’s old darkroom stuff, I got a…
A clarification: The camera could be as late as 1934. The catalog years overlap — 1932-33, 1933-34, 1934-35. The 34-35 catalog is the first one to show the “Action Front” push button bed release. The 32-33 catalog is the only one that explicitly states the camera is available in black or brown but I don’t know if later model years had the color choice. If it is from 33-34, the doublet was the low-end lens with an f/6.3 or f/4.5 anastigmat as an upgrade and a Diodak shutter option which added 1/10 second to the speeds of the Kodon.
View of the Truchas Mountains.
The scalloping at the top of the next image is from re-spooling the film. I didn’t have it perfectly parallel to the 620 spool rim so the film & paper came off at an angle and wrinkled.
No idea — it looks like water.
Taken with the tape and poster board seals. Still leaked.
Trinity in the sun. Instax with the tape/cardboard seals.
Trinity on the sun porch. No leaks!
That’s it for posted images taken with this camera. About the kludges follows.
Dark room and an LED flashlight inside show just how leaky the bellows is.
Sketching out the “over bellows”.
Getting the cardboard between the bellows and the folding front was a challenge. Good view of the aperture setting: U.S. 8=f/11, 16=f/16, 32=f/22, 64=f/32.
Nothing like a closeup to show how dusty it is.
I thought I was done here.
The back is 6 X 9cm and the front is sized to let the Instax frame slide in.
Instax Mini adapter.
I still got light leaks between the top and body. I tried yet more tape before giving up and shrouding the whole thing with my dark bag.
Getting kind of silly with the tape.
I don’t have a proper darkroom so here’s the process. I taped up the Instax film box to use as a transfer station.
Put the film in the box.
The box and camera go into the dark bag. Remove the film, remove one frame from the cartridge, insert it in the holder in the camera, and put the cartridge back in the box.
Meter, carefully take the camera out of the bag, and shroud everything but the lens and shutter trigger.
Take the shot and put the camera back in the bag.
Take the frame out of the holder, slide it back in the Instax cartridge, and put the cartridge in the light-tight box.
Put the Instax camera in the bag, load the cartridge, take it out, cover the lens, and shoot it to run the print through the Instax rollers.
I got turned around a couple of times and loaded the Instax frame with the image side towards the lens. I burned through most of a box of 10 prints to get two OK images but it was still a lot cheaper and faster than using negative film (re-spool, reload, process) for each iteration.
Fuji ISO 200 film of unknown vintage. Some grain in low light but not bad for being in someone’s garage. Processed and scanned by The Camera Shop of Santa Fe.
Bulb and writing with the cats’ laser pointer.
Sleepy Zoe. Mostly shots of the cats on this roll. Handheld at f/1.7 at ~ 1/30.
Goober. Handheld at f/1.7 & ~1/30.
Goober with flash. F/16 & 1/90 at 3 feet*.
* With the old Achiever 115A flash, ISO 200 should be at f/22 at 3 feet but the Rokkor-X PF 50mm f/1.7 only stops down to f/16. Exposure compensation wouldn’t help since the exposure is based on the flash duration and the only correction the camera could do would be to double the shutter speed at -1 exposure compensation (to adjust the exposure down to ISO 100 which is on the flash table at f/16 and 3 feet). A -1 stop ND filter would work but I didn’t have one handy. I got lucky with the film’s exposure latitude (or it’s slower because it’s old) and it’s not overexposed.
F/1.7 = tiny depth of field. I tried to focus on Trinity as she came towards me. With the shutter so slow it’s hard to tell.
I darkened everything but her eyes. Lemonade!
One more of Zoe just because I like it.
I turned on the den light & remembered the camera was on the tripod just outside the window. I thought I’d ruined the shot and stopped the exposure at about 10 minutes.