It really is one of the brighter viewfinders I’ve seen. L-R reversed.
I included this to show the film edge markings.
Blurry from the shutter sticking but I kind of like it.
Super-blurry but I like this one too.
I’m still trying to find my Photoshop Elements disk. It’s in a box somewhere. In the meantime, I’ve been using GIMP. The workflow is really different but it’s growing on me.
I did a digital graduated filter on this one to boost the shadows on the bottom.
I have a few shots from disassembling the camera to clean it. I’ll combine those with photos of the 2nd tear-down to fix the shutter and post here. Hopefully followed by another roll of images.
Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. A couple of images and the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.
One specification missing from the manual and most of the web is the focal length of the lens. I haven’t independently verified it but this Lomography article says it is 42.5mm.
The T-shirt is a design by my brother Mike. He did it when Catherine Coulson, best known as the log lady from Twin Peaks, died in 2015.
Since I found the second camera and have 4 Rapid cartridges, I can afford to dissect one and see if it’s practical to duplicate them.
Grainy trash can.
Walk-up window at the Stop & Eat.
I’m using new scanning software, Vuescan. So far, I love it. Its batch processing is kind of weak. You have to be able to give it the frame spacing beforehand and I scan too much weird stuff. Also, including spacing around the negatives throws off the exposure (see images below for the way around it). Still, it’s much better for just about everything than Canon’s software.
Using the Canoscan 9000f film holder.
Same image with the negative directly on the flatbed. I can’t even express how useful this is going to be.
Negative scanned as slide film.
Playing with inversion and contrast boost made something interesting.
Telling the software that negatives are slides removes the correction for the color of the emulsion. It’s pretty easy to do it right but this was fun, learn the software time. The right way: Set it for color negatives (most B&W emulsion is pretty clear), set the crop area to the image, lock the exposure, expand the crop area to include the sprocket holes, and hit the scan button.
Ansco also made a box camera ca. 1926 called the Craftsman No.2A.
Not a lot of images to show in addition to what’s in the video. Fujifilm Neopan 100 Acros developed in Kodak HC-110.
Because the shutter is slow I used a Y2 filter (1 stop) for most of the shots on this roll. The yellow provides a nice contrast boost too.
I’m really impressed by the sharpness of the images. No post-processing other than resizing.
Zoe checking out the new-old rug for my office.
Lousy composition but I love the contrasts in aspen bark.
The neighbor’s goats.
I struck out trying to find a manual or information and had to find out for myself.
Checking the focal length
I taped the inside edge, where the film insert goes and marked the tape at the film plane.
Marking the film plane
Next I taped the lens inside so I wouldn’t scratch it with the calipers and put a thin piece of card stock along the film plane line.
Card stock to measure against the calipers
The calipers have a post that sticks out as the jaws open allowing depth measurements.
Checking the aperture
You can see the aperture in front of the lens but behind the shutter.
The Play-Doh was covered in plastic food wrap as I held the shutter open with the stem from a cotton swab and pressed it into the aperture. I could have used about five hands for this operation. Thankfully, there isn’t glass in front of the shutter.
~90mm focal length / ~7mm diameter = ~f/13.
And then I found this ad. I need to re-find it on the web so I can give proper credit.
Checking the shutter speed
I set the Olympus to 240 frames per second and shot the shutter six times. In Quicktime, I counted frames from closed (pure black) to closed again. From my working notes:
The red window is bright and easy to read. Maybe too easy. The right edge of the aspen image and the top of the goats have some funky marks. It could be from processing. I’d need to shoot another roll doing frames with the window covered and uncovered to be sure.
Note to self: Cover the window on an old unknown camera unless that’s part of the test.
Update 26 November 2016
Scroll down for results from the tutorial shoot.
Tutorial part 1 — getting the camera ready to shoot.
Tutorial part 2 — using the camera.
While I finish out the roll and process, here are some images from about a year ago shot using this camera. FPP RetroChrome 320 slide film. It’s grainy but nice. I used it when I shot with the Promaster 2000PK too. Developed in hopelessly exhausted E6 chemicals.
Morris parked at the Co-Op.
Iron Giant while Meow Wolf was still under construction.
Sticks behind a chain link fence.
Tutorial Shoot Images
Ilford Pan F 50 expired “Dec 2002”. Developed in Kodak HC-110.
Jem grooming Goober — no flash.
Jem grooming Goober — with flash.
Compost pile under cloudy sky.
Roses — macro with 4000 AF flash.
“We don’t make mistakes. We have happy accidents” — Bob Ross
I had a plethora of “happy accidents”. I…
Misread the expiration on the film box. If I had realized it was 14 years out of date, I would have adjusted the shooting ISO downward or used different film.
Didn’t check the internal battery and wasted a frame opening the back to reset the counter to ‘1’.
Underexposed shots of the gatos using a 2800 AF flash that was malfunctioning. Jem did start grooming Goober so it turned out to be a better image.
Tried to share the roll with another camera by cutting it in half in the dark bag after I shot the first half. I misjudged half way and ruined the apple depth-of-field test images.
The film felt odd going on to the developing reel but I was in a hurry and didn’t take the time to re-spool. The film jumped the guides and stuck together and came out completely near the end of the film, leading to over-agitation marks on ~ 5 frames.