It’s been a while. Life gets busy sometimes.
I’ll post more later — the images take a bit of effort because of the funky film.
Scanned on a CanoScan 9000f at 600DPI. These are resized to 1024 pixels on the short side.
The first two are also in the video. There are 8 frames in a pack of Impossible film — it’s not like I have 36 images to choose from, plus, I really like them.
This is a lame picture but it’s the result of an experiment so I included it. I used a telephoto adapter for a Canon AF35ML/Super Sure Shot/Autoboy Super (which sadly, I don’t have working yet). I framed using the adapter lens held over the viewfinder lens and then moved it over the taking lens. I was a little sloppy with the framing (no tripod) and got my finger in the picture but it works! That means I can use an even longer telephoto, a wide angle, or even a fish-eye adapter. I do need to adjust for the loss of light next time — there ain’t no free lunch.
Another developer-didn’t-quite-reach splat. Still, not bad for film that’s been expired for 2 years.
Update 9 July 2017: One camera is for sale. $45.00 shipping included. I’m keeping the other one for film experiments.
Includes camera, original strap, and case.
Some color correction from the old film — this camera got the other half of the 1997 Fuji 400 roll.
I hope I can fix/remove the weird drips. I like a couple of the images enough to try with swabs and distilled water.
This guy decided to shoot with cameras he could get for 99P (under a pound UK) and the Halina Speedy 33 was his first project camera: https://austerityphoto.co.uk/halina-speedy-33-poundland-camera-no-1/
The Owner’s Manual is posted on the Manuals page.
I did a LOT of color correction on these. The film in the camera in the video is not what I used — that’s a bad roll of Polaroid I use to test film transport, etc. The images are Fuji ISO 400, expired in April of 1997 and it shows. Really grainy and it has a bluish tint almost like expired slide film. I processed this at home (Unicolor C-41 kit) so temperature variation might be part of it. It’s not the camera’s fault.
Links mentioned in the video:
I like to show different images here but I was processing as we went to check exposure so we only got 3 from the paint can camera.
A chart from Mr. Pinhole showed 2.5 minutes. My meter app showed 1.5. We split the difference at 2 minutes and ended up overexposed. It was bright out.
You can’t see the close-focus distortion from the curved plane in the video.
The scanner at work, a Canon print/scan/fax thing, was giving me bad reflections from the clear plastic on the Instax frames so i had to adjust. They’re underexposed to start with — f/256 is pretty dim.
My kludge of a darkroom…
It worked, it was black-black. Then I remembered when I bought a guy’s old darkroom stuff, I got a…
A comprehensive history of Koni cameras: http://www.peterlanczak.de/koni_overview.htm
Ilford HP5 developed in HC110. Beautiful, contrast-y stuff.
Heavy noise reduction on all. I hope some of it is scanner noise rather than grain so I can re-scan at higher resolution on a couple of them.
There was a weird dust splat and I did a little color correction on this one.
Color correction for the old film.
Boosted the mid-tones. The noise reduction tends to make things look flat and this could’ve used flash.
For lending me the camera — Thanks Dave!
Amazing collection of Kodak catalogs at Kodakcollector.com.
A clarification: The camera could be as late as 1934. The catalog years overlap — 1932-33, 1933-34, 1934-35. The 34-35 catalog is the first one to show the “Action Front” push button bed release. The 32-33 catalog is the only one that explicitly states the camera is available in black or brown but I don’t know if later model years had the color choice. If it is from 33-34, the doublet was the low-end lens with an f/6.3 or f/4.5 anastigmat as an upgrade and a Diodak shutter option which added 1/10 second to the speeds of the Kodon.
The scalloping at the top of the next image is from re-spooling the film. I didn’t have it perfectly parallel to the 620 spool rim so the film & paper came off at an angle and wrinkled.
Taken with the tape and poster board seals. Still leaked.
That’s it for posted images taken with this camera. About the kludges follows.
Getting the cardboard between the bellows and the folding front was a challenge. Good view of the aperture setting: U.S. 8=f/11, 16=f/16, 32=f/22, 64=f/32.
The back is 6 X 9cm and the front is sized to let the Instax frame slide in.
I still got light leaks between the top and body. I tried yet more tape before giving up and shrouding the whole thing with my dark bag.
I don’t have a proper darkroom so here’s the process. I taped up the Instax film box to use as a transfer station.
- Put the film in the box.
- The box and camera go into the dark bag. Remove the film, remove one frame from the cartridge, insert it in the holder in the camera, and put the cartridge back in the box.
- Meter, carefully take the camera out of the bag, and shroud everything but the lens and shutter trigger.
- Take the shot and put the camera back in the bag.
- Take the frame out of the holder, slide it back in the Instax cartridge, and put the cartridge in the light-tight box.
- Put the Instax camera in the bag, load the cartridge, take it out, cover the lens, and shoot it to run the print through the Instax rollers.
I got turned around a couple of times and loaded the Instax frame with the image side towards the lens. I burned through most of a box of 10 prints to get two OK images but it was still a lot cheaper and faster than using negative film (re-spool, reload, process) for each iteration.