Tag Archives: camera

52 Cameras: # 124 — Olympus Infinity Stylus Zoom 140




I did a bit of editing on most of the images. It’s from the film (age=grain and loss of speed) and scanner noise.
I walked around Santa Fe while my car was being serviced.  This chicken was hanging out in a bush by the sidewalk.

I walked around Santa Fe while my car was being serviced. This chicken was hanging out in a bush by the sidewalk.


"Brickface Hope" by James Tyler.

Brickface Hope” by James Tyler.


Window in downtown Santa Fe.

Window in downtown Santa Fe.


Beautiful old Pinzgauer.

Beautiful old Pinzgauer.

52 Cameras: # 123 — Minolta XE-5




Fuji ISO 200 film of unknown vintage. Some grain in low light but not bad for being in someone’s garage. Processed and scanned by The Camera Shop of Santa Fe.

Bulb and writing with the cats' laser pointer.

Bulb and writing with the cats’ laser pointer.


Sleepy Zoe.  Mostly shots of the cats on this roll.  Handheld at f/1.7 at ~ 1/30.

Sleepy Zoe. Mostly shots of the cats on this roll. Handheld at f/1.7 at ~ 1/30.


Goober.  Handheld at f/1.7 & ~1/30.

Goober. Handheld at f/1.7 & ~1/30.


Goober with flash.  F/16 & 1/90 at 3 feet*.

Goober with flash. F/16 & 1/90 at 3 feet*.


* With the old Achiever 115A flash, ISO 200 should be at f/22 at 3 feet but the Rokkor-X PF 50mm f/1.7 only stops down to f/16. Exposure compensation wouldn’t help since the exposure is based on the flash duration and the only correction the camera could do would be to double the shutter speed at -1 exposure compensation (to adjust the exposure down to ISO 100 which is on the flash table at f/16 and 3 feet). A -1 stop ND filter would work but I didn’t have one handy. I got lucky with the film’s exposure latitude (or it’s slower because it’s old) and it’s not overexposed.

F/1.7 = tiny depth of field.  I tried to focus on Trinity as she came towards me.  With the shutter so slow it's hard to tell.

F/1.7 = tiny depth of field. I tried to focus on Trinity as she came towards me. With the shutter so slow it’s hard to tell.


I darkened everything but her eyes.  Lemonade!

I darkened everything but her eyes. Lemonade!


One more of Zoe just because I like it.

One more of Zoe just because I like it.


I turned on the den light & remembered the camera was on the tripod just outside the window.  I thought I'd ruined the shot and stopped the exposure at about 10 minutes.

I turned on the den light & remembered the camera was on the tripod just outside the window. I thought I’d ruined the shot and stopped the exposure at about 10 minutes.

Attempted Repair of the Argoflex Seventy-Five

Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. Here’s the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.

It’s pretty easy to get inside to the shutter. The first tear-down was more thorough — I removed the insert that goes from the back of the shutter to the film plane and disassembled the viewfinder. There are two screws inside the light-tight chamber.

Four screws on the front.

Four screws on the front.


This copper (brass?) provides the friction to hold the Inst/Time selector.  It will immediately fall out.

This copper (brass?) provides the friction to hold the Inst/Time selector. It will immediately fall out.


Two screws at the front of the viewfinder.

Two screws at the front of the viewfinder.


I completely removed the VF during the cleaning tear-down to get to the lens and mirror. The VF hood is a pain to get back in its slot so don’t do it unless you have to.
With the VF hood up, the whole front will tilt upwards.

With the VF hood up, the whole front will tilt upwards.


The four front screws also hold the lens board -- it pops right out.

The four front screws also hold the lens board — it pops right out.


Without the shutter cocked, you can't really see the part the selector works.

Without the shutter cocked, you can’t really see the part the selector works.


This bit that sticks into the body is the culprit.

This bit that sticks into the body is the culprit.


The triangular piece coming in at the left selects "instantaneous" or "time".

The triangular piece coming in at the left selects “instantaneous” or “time”.


Two screws hold the top of the shutter assembly.

Two screws hold the top of the shutter assembly.


One screw at the bottom.

One screw at the bottom.


Not sure why but the bottom screw (right) is different.

Not sure why but the bottom screw (right) is different.


The side has the rod that cocks the shutter from the wind knob and the flash contacts.

The side has the rod that cocks the shutter from the wind knob and the flash contacts.


Cocked and pressing the button, you can see the selector doesn't move up and down but in (Inst) and out (Time).

Cocked and pressing the button, you can see the selector doesn’t move up and down but in (Inst) and out (Time).


It's a two-piece shutter.  The red opens followed by the rear that closes.  The triangle holds the rear open.

It’s a two-piece shutter. The red opens followed by the rear that closes. The triangle holds the rear open.


I thought this wasn't pressing down enough to allow the rear shutter to close.

I thought this wasn’t pressing down enough to allow the rear shutter to close.


Bad alignment but I bent it down.  It also increased the friction.

Bad alignment but I bent it down. It also increased the friction.


Holding the triangle down with a small drill bit, the shutter worked at the instantaneous setting every time. Bending the selector seemed to work but it isn’t reliable. I’ll go inside again and report back here.

52 Cameras: # 122 — Argus Argoflex Seventy-Five




It really is one of the brighter viewfinders I've seen.  L-R reversed.

It really is one of the brighter viewfinders I’ve seen. L-R reversed.


I included this to show the film edge markings.

I included this to show the film edge markings.


Blurry from the shutter sticking but I kind of like it.

Blurry from the shutter sticking but I kind of like it.


Super-blurry but I like this one too.

Super-blurry but I like this one too.


I’m still trying to find my Photoshop Elements disk. It’s in a box somewhere. In the meantime, I’ve been using GIMP. The workflow is really different but it’s growing on me.
I did a digital graduated filter on this one to boost the shadows on the bottom.

I did a digital graduated filter on this one to boost the shadows on the bottom.




I have a few shots from disassembling the camera to clean it. I’ll combine those with photos of the 2nd tear-down to fix the shutter and post here. Hopefully followed by another roll of images.


Not much for images — the shutter still sticks. A couple of images and the disassembly/attempted repair experiment.

52 Cameras: # 120 — Agfa Isoflash-Rapid C




One specification missing from the manual and most of the web is the focal length of the lens. I haven’t independently verified it but this Lomography article says it is 42.5mm.

The T-shirt is a design by my brother Mike. He did it when Catherine Coulson, best known as the log lady from Twin Peaks, died in 2015.

Since I found the second camera and have 4 Rapid cartridges, I can afford to dissect one and see if it’s practical to duplicate them.

Grainy trash can.

Grainy trash can.

Walk-up window at the Stop & Eat.

Walk-up window at the Stop & Eat.

I’m using new scanning software, Vuescan. So far, I love it. Its batch processing is kind of weak. You have to be able to give it the frame spacing beforehand and I scan too much weird stuff. Also, including spacing around the negatives throws off the exposure (see images below for the way around it). Still, it’s much better for just about everything than Canon’s software.

Using the Canoscan 9000f film holder.

Using the Canoscan 9000f film holder.

Same image with the negative directly on the flatbed.  I can't even express how useful this is going to be.

Same image with the negative directly on the flatbed. I can’t even express how useful this is going to be.

Negative scanned as slide film.

Negative scanned as slide film.

Playing with inversion and contrast boost made something interesting.

Playing with inversion and contrast boost made something interesting.

Telling the software that negatives are slides removes the correction for the color of the emulsion. It’s pretty easy to do it right but this was fun, learn the software time. The right way: Set it for color negatives (most B&W emulsion is pretty clear), set the crop area to the image, lock the exposure, expand the crop area to include the sprocket holes, and hit the scan button.

52 Cameras: # 119 — Minolta Hi-Matic S




My sweetie at Santa Fe Bar & Grill.

My sweetie at Santa Fe Bar & Grill.


Detail of a controversial (and vandalized) mural in progress in Santa Fe.

Detail of a controversial (and vandalized) mural in progress in Santa Fe.


Interesting morning light on a closed produce stand in Española, NM.

Interesting morning light on a closed produce stand in Española, NM.


This is in the video but Trinity is so darn cute.

This is in the video but Trinity is so darn cute.


Princess Zoe is not amused by the attention the kitten has been getting.

Princess Zoe is not amused by the attention the kitten has been getting.


The velociraptors like that I haven't raked the leaves -- more bugs that way.

The velociraptors like that I haven’t raked the leaves — more bugs that way.




Update 12 July 2017: This camera found a new home on my ETSY store.
New light seals since the review. They were pretty easy to do. Felt at the hinge and thin foam strips press-fitted into the grooves.

Minolta Hi-Matic S -- front

Minolta Hi-Matic S — front


Minolta Hi-Matic S -- bottom

Minolta Hi-Matic S — bottom


Minolta Hi-Matic S -- back

Minolta Hi-Matic S — back


Minolta Hi-Matic S -- flash up

Minolta Hi-Matic S — flash up


Minolta Hi-Matic S -- back open

Minolta Hi-Matic S — back open

52 Cameras: # 118 — Ansco Craftsman (1950)

Thanks Sonette!


Ansco also made a box camera ca. 1926 called the Craftsman No.2A.



Not a lot of images to show in addition to what’s in the video. Fujifilm Neopan 100 Acros developed in Kodak HC-110.

Because the shutter is slow I used a Y2 filter (1 stop) for most of the shots on this roll. The yellow provides a nice contrast boost too.

I’m really impressed by the sharpness of the images. No post-processing other than resizing.

Zoe checking out the new-old rug for my office.

Zoe checking out the new-old rug for my office.

Lousy composition but I love the contrasts in aspen bark.

Lousy composition but I love the contrasts in aspen bark.

The neighbor's goats.

The neighbor’s goats.




I struck out trying to find a manual or information and had to find out for myself.

Checking the focal length
I taped the inside edge, where the film insert goes and marked the tape at the film plane.

Marking the film plane

Marking the film plane

Next I taped the lens inside so I wouldn’t scratch it with the calipers and put a thin piece of card stock along the film plane line.

Card stock to measure against the calipers

Card stock to measure against the calipers

The calipers have a post that sticks out as the jaws open allowing depth measurements.

90mm-ish

90mm-ish

Checking the aperture
You can see the aperture in front of the lens but behind the shutter.

Aperture

Aperture

The Play-Doh was covered in plastic food wrap as I held the shutter open with the stem from a cotton swab and pressed it into the aperture. I could have used about five hands for this operation. Thankfully, there isn’t glass in front of the shutter.

7mm-ish

7mm-ish

~90mm focal length / ~7mm diameter = ~f/13.

And then I found this ad. I need to re-find it on the web so I can give proper credit.

f/14

f/14

Checking the shutter speed
I set the Olympus to 240 frames per second and shot the shutter six times. In Quicktime, I counted frames from closed (pure black) to closed again. From my working notes:

Vid at 240 frames / second = 4.17 ms / frame

1. 14
2. 12
3. 12
4. 14
5. 12
6. 11
——
75 / 6 = 12.5 frames

12.5 x 4.17ms = 0.0521 seconds = ~ 5/100 = ~ 1/20 second avg.

fastest = 11 = ~ 4.6/100 = ~ 1/22
slowest = 14 = ~ 5.8/100 = ~ 1/17

Frame counter window

Frame counter window

The red window is bright and easy to read. Maybe too easy. The right edge of the aspen image and the top of the goats have some funky marks. It could be from processing. I’d need to shoot another roll doing frames with the window covered and uncovered to be sure.

Note to self: Cover the window on an old unknown camera unless that’s part of the test.

52 Cameras: # 115 & 116 — Using The Maxxum 7000 parts 1 & 2

Update 26 November 2016
Scroll down for results from the tutorial shoot.

Tutorial part 1 — getting the camera ready to shoot.



Tutorial part 2 — using the camera.



While I finish out the roll and process, here are some images from about a year ago shot using this camera. FPP RetroChrome 320 slide film. It’s grainy but nice. I used it when I shot with the Promaster 2000PK too. Developed in hopelessly exhausted E6 chemicals.

Morris parked at the Co-Op.

Morris parked at the Co-Op.


Iron Giant while Meow Wolf was still under construction.

Iron Giant while Meow Wolf was still under construction.


Sticks behind a chain link fence.

Sticks behind a chain link fence.




Tutorial Shoot Images

Ilford Pan F 50 expired “Dec 2002”. Developed in Kodak HC-110.

Jem grooming Goober -- no flash.

Jem grooming Goober — no flash.


Jem grooming Goober -- with flash.

Jem grooming Goober — with flash.


Compost pile under cloudy sky.

Compost pile under cloudy sky.


Roses -- macro with 4000 AF flash.

Roses — macro with 4000 AF flash.


"We don't make mistakes.  We have happy accidents" -- Bob Ross

“We don’t make mistakes. We have happy accidents” — Bob Ross

    I had a plethora of “happy accidents”. I…

  • Misread the expiration on the film box. If I had realized it was 14 years out of date, I would have adjusted the shooting ISO downward or used different film.
  • Didn’t check the internal battery and wasted a frame opening the back to reset the counter to ‘1’.
  • Underexposed shots of the gatos using a 2800 AF flash that was malfunctioning. Jem did start grooming Goober so it turned out to be a better image.
  • Tried to share the roll with another camera by cutting it in half in the dark bag after I shot the first half. I misjudged half way and ruined the apple depth-of-field test images.
  • The film felt odd going on to the developing reel but I was in a hurry and didn’t take the time to re-spool. The film jumped the guides and stuck together and came out completely near the end of the film, leading to over-agitation marks on ~ 5 frames.