The manual is still available from Canon.
Modes available from the mode dial: Manual, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, Program Auto Exposure, Auto, Easy, Movie Digest (makes a movie from stills), Scene modes (see below), Creative Filters (see below-below), Movie (or set up preferences in the menu & hit the red button).
Scene Modes: Portrait, Landscape, Kids & Pets, & SCN. SCN has menu options: Handheld Night Scene, Low Light, Beach, Underwater (requires housing – this camera is not waterproof), Foliage, Fireworks, & Snow.
Creative Filters: Super Vivid, Poster Effect, Fish-eye, Miniature, Toy, Monochrome (actually pretty nice), Color Accent, & Color Swap.
Canon 60D, ISO 1600, f/2, 15 seconds, Sigma 30mm F1.4 EX DC (HSM).* The lens is 48mm equivalent field of view with the 60D’s 1.6X crop factor. For meteors, a wider lens is better but this is what I have in sharp, fast glass. I got a couple of meteor images at 30 seconds but the stars are little glow worms.
Some of the stars in the original, particularly Orion’s belt, have red halos so looking at them zoomed out they look pink.
First, I desaturated the red channel on selected stars.
Next I used the Focus Magic filter to undo some motion blur (about 7 pixels). I’m using a demo version and still learning my way around it. It tends to oversharpen but I think that’s more a function of my ignorance than anything wrong with the algorithm. The demo is nice. It doesn’t cripple the software or add a watermark, you just have a limit of 10 images.
Pixel-peeping to see how well the blur removal worked, I found more red halos and did another round of selective red desaturation.
In GIMP, I adjusted the exposure to -0.750. An un-adjusted image comes up with exposure ‘0’. I’m not sure what the units are but I tweaked to taste. The trees lost a little glow but the sky looks more like what my eyes saw. I’ll probably play some more. If anything worth seeing comes out of it, I’ll update this post.
* This lens is discontinued. I got mine as a Sigma factory refurbished lens when the model was still current. Some “new old stock” is available depending on mount and mint used ones can be picked up inexpensively. The newer version is part of Sigma’s “Art” series. It costs a bit more (MSRP $499) and is tweakable with their USB dock.
For 2020, I’m doing an extremely-long-exposure photograph or solargraph. The Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day rules are that the photograph must be taken “on the day annually designated as Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day ( April 26, 2020 )” or “Extremely long exposures will be accepted if any part of the exposure was made on Worldwide Pinhole Photography Day…”
I started the exposure on 1 May 2019 and I want to do a full year. That means if the exposure is a bust, I’ve missed WPPD and I’ve got nothing.
So… I decided to make another pinhole camera and use a scanner. I used a USB powered Canon LIDE 30 as a digital back and VueScan and TWAIN-SANE software. The results are not a supreme victory but first, the camera.
JPEG from a PDF page print from http://mrpinhole.com/. I used 8×10 inches as the portion of the 8.5×11″ scanner in case I had to resort to paper. The 16″ film dimension is insurance and a trade off to get the specs I wanted.
Sadly, in the short term, it was not to be. I got something, but nothing to write home about.
I’m not completely ignorant about exposure. Something is going on with the scanner. I even tried an emergency, 1/2 the focal distance (f/128-ish) cardboard box.
Not happy with the results, I had to implement plan C. I replaced the scanner with print paper.
The result is pretty sweet. I’m not insane (about this any way) and the camera works well.
I’m up late and it’s actually May 1st. At about 3:00 PM local time I’ll cover the shutter and find out if the long exposure worked.
A YouTube viewer asked about the parallax error when using the clip-on optical viewfinder. I did a quick & dirty experiment to find out. Original Quicktake 200 post is here.
The 3 focus ranges are 9-13cm for close-up, 45-90cm for portrait, & 90cm-infinity for landscape. The manual says, “IMPORTANT Do not use the close-up focus when you use the viewfinder. It is not accurate.” I didn’t bother with the close up setting but the next worst parallax would be the nearest focus of the portrait setting. The manual also says, “Estimate the focal distance from the front surface of the LCD screen to the object being photographed.” The LCD is on the back so I guess they mean its surface.
I put this on the wall in the kitchen.
I put the camera on a small tripod, and measured the distance to the wall so the LCD was 45cm away. I looked as straight through the viewfinder as I could and held still while M slid her finger along the ruler toward the center until I could see it. We repeated that for left, right, top, and bottom. The measurements are just relative to each other, not meaningful in themselves.
Left: 29cm, Right: 67cm, Top: 10cm, Bottom: 37cm
Next, I snapped a picture with the camera in the same place. Ignore the date & time – I didn’t set the camera’s clock.
The image captured these measurements.
Left: 28cm, Right: 60cm, Top: 13cm, Bottom: 38cm
I was a little off reading the ruler. This diagram shows the relationship of the viewfinder view and the sensor image.
Nikon still has the manual here.
A photo that was on the SD card when I got the camera.
I’ll do a separate “Phound Photos” post. The card had images from 14 Dec 2012 to 11 Jul 2013.
It was super windy and the old 400mm definitely does not have image stabilization. I got lucky during a short lull.
The teleconverter loses 2 stops plus the filter material I had left over from the eclipse. Mercury is at about 1:00. Not great but comparable to the live stream from the Griffith Observatory. I may be alive the next time it’s visible from North America but who knows? Best to grab it while I can.
Things I missed or glossed over in the video:
Canon still has the manual.
Scene modes: Portrait – “soft effect”, Landscape – deep DoF, Night Scene – slow shutter + flash, Sports – continuous shooting with AF, Night Snapshot – reduces camera shake (boosts ISO & shutter?), Kids & Pets, Indoor, Sunset, Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Aquarium, Underwater, ISO 3200 (2X normal highest), and Color Swap.
Metering modes: Evaluative, Center weighted average, Spot AE Point/Center – spot metering is whatever is in the center of the LCD, and Spot AE Point/AF Point – AE point follows AF point (only works with FlexiZone AF selected).
No exposure modifications except the bird photo.
Some crops. For a P&S, it tolerates crops pretty well.
Open house at New Mexico Wildlife Center was awesome. It’s not on their web site yet but they have a “photographer’s day” coming up in November.