A YouTube viewer asked about the parallax error when using the clip-on optical viewfinder. I did a quick & dirty experiment to find out. Original Quicktake 200 post is here.
The 3 focus ranges are 9-13cm for close-up, 45-90cm for portrait, & 90cm-infinity for landscape. The manual says, “IMPORTANT Do not use the close-up focus when you use the viewfinder. It is not accurate.” I didn’t bother with the close up setting but the next worst parallax would be the nearest focus of the portrait setting. The manual also says, “Estimate the focal distance from the front surface of the LCD screen to the object being photographed.” The LCD is on the back so I guess they mean its surface.
I put this on the wall in the kitchen.
I put the camera on a small tripod, and measured the distance to the wall so the LCD was 45cm away. I looked as straight through the viewfinder as I could and held still while M slid her finger along the ruler toward the center until I could see it. We repeated that for left, right, top, and bottom. The measurements are just relative to each other, not meaningful in themselves.
Left: 29cm, Right: 67cm, Top: 10cm, Bottom: 37cm
Next, I snapped a picture with the camera in the same place. Ignore the date & time – I didn’t set the camera’s clock.
The image captured these measurements.
Left: 28cm, Right: 60cm, Top: 13cm, Bottom: 38cm
I was a little off reading the ruler. This diagram shows the relationship of the viewfinder view and the sensor image.
The viewfinder graphics are a screen grab from the amazing Photography in Malaysia site.
Second roll – expired Kodak T-MAX 400.
Fujifilm Fujichrome Provia 100F.
The “Phound Photos” post for this camera: http://exit272.com/?p=4897
Kind of a long post so scroll down or go back if you get bored.
I mentioned the failed 1st roll (Alaris 200 color print film) in the Olympus Trip MD post. My C-41 developer was too old so most of the negatives came out really bad. The scanner has to boost the gain to get something and it introduces a lot of noise. Once I saw them, I didn’t really take care of them and they got dust and scratches. I scanned them any way but results were not pretty. While another roll was scanning, I played with some GIMP filters to kill time.
Most of the filters can be tuned so the effects aren’t so drastic but I was messing with scans I didn’t really care about any way.
These filtered versions of the grass aren’t really identifiable, but they came out kind of cool.
And the best for last.
GIMP has gotten really good. I can’t find the Photoshop Elements 8 installer I got with the Canon Scanner. I re-bought PSE (version 15) since Adobe doesn’t have installers going back that far, even if you have your serial number. I think it was installed on a drive I wiped without freeing up the license so I don’t know if it’s doable even if I find the disc. PSE 15 kind of sucks compared to the older version. I just have GIMP 2.10 on the laptop. The workflow is different but it easily rivals PSE now and maybe full Photoshop. I hate the software as a service model so even if I thought PS “Creative Cloud” was worth the extra money, I probably wouldn’t get it.
The site with the lens construction info:
The manual is under Manuals & Ephemera.
I’ll do a separate post about the failed 1st roll. I ended up having some fun with it.
In the above two images, I like the barbed wire and fence receding into the distance in the first one. I also like the focus on the vehicles in the second one.
The background colors were “meh” and there were some weird red flares on the wall so I desaturated everything but the table.
Nikon still has the manual here.
A photo that was on the SD card when I got the camera.
I’ll do a separate “Phound Photos” post. The card had images from 14 Dec 2012 to 11 Jul 2013.
Like the Konica Tomato/Pop-10, the brightest f-stop is the only one given in the manufacturer’s literature. Unlike the Tomato, I couldn’t find information on line so I had to do it myself.
If you don’t care how I arrived at these values and trust a random web page, here’s a table:
These values are rounded to the nearest whole stop. YMMV. Not responsible for ruined shots, hives, divorce, or any negative outcome resulting from the use of this information.
The camera is dark gray or black but the LED lights made it look blue.
Trusting that 35mm really is the focal length and f/4 really is the brightest f-stop:
35mm / 4 = 8.75mm diameter with the lens wide open.
The area is what’s important for exposure. Focal length/diameter=f-stop only holds for circular apertures. For most, I treated the shapes like diamonds and used (b x h)/2 for the area. To keep things simple, I cropped in to the edge of the lens and then resized to 875 pixels so 100 pixels is one millimeter. Once I had an approximate area, I used the equivalent circle area to get a diameter. SensorsOne has a great calculator so I could just plug in the area instead of using a calculator and working backwards from area=π r² every time.
The last one was still approximated to a diamond but I had to be more accurate as the apertures got smaller.