Things I missed or glossed over in the video:
Canon still has the manual.
Scene modes: Portrait – “soft effect”, Landscape – deep DoF, Night Scene – slow shutter + flash, Sports – continuous shooting with AF, Night Snapshot – reduces camera shake (boosts ISO & shutter?), Kids & Pets, Indoor, Sunset, Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Aquarium, Underwater, ISO 3200 (2X normal highest), and Color Swap.
Metering modes: Evaluative, Center weighted average, Spot AE Point/Center – spot metering is whatever is in the center of the LCD, and Spot AE Point/AF Point – AE point follows AF point (only works with FlexiZone AF selected).
No exposure modifications except the bird photo.
Some crops. For a P&S, it tolerates crops pretty well.
Open house at New Mexico Wildlife Center was awesome. It’s not on their web site yet but they have a “photographer’s day” coming up in November.
First, some found images. Fujicolor Superia 800.
If you know these people or are these people, get a hold of me through the YouTube comments and I’ll get some images to you.
Kodak TMAX-100. The images were a little soft but I think that was mostly my development.
I mentioned organic in the video. I don’t know if the farm is certified but the practices are in line with it. Organic certification can take a long time and it can be pricey to get and maintain it.
Update 20 December 2019: I shot a frame of GAF Versapan in this camera. This post got too long so I moved it to another post
A lot of duplication with what is in the video. 10 frames in the pack & the first one jammed. Another, I had a dud bulb in a flash cube and it was black.
Looking for an article about diffraction, I discovered digital bellows leak filters are a thing.
The manual dev-goo spreading worked a little. The lighter area at middle left would have been blank. Not keeping tight control of pressure, I also lifted some developer – the white areas in the print – and spread it too thin – the light area to the right of Goober. I’d only seen the fern pattern with integral film before. Maybe I can tweak roller pressure and get better results out of Polaroid Originals/Impossible film.
The picture of Trinity above is a bit overexposed. I was too close and forgot to turn down the ProFlash power setting.
I couldn’t figure out why I was getting the beach-ball-of-death while resizing images in Preview. I’d opened the images stored on the iMac from the laptop. Apparently, I was closing Preview before the saves were complete and it did strange things.
I had several cameras with found film in them. As usual, most had nothing but a couple had something. I had gotten this roll processed at The Camera Shop of Santa Fe and it wasn’t scannable. I set it aside and came back across it while cleaning the office/workshop. Before chucking it, I held it up to the light and could barely make out some images. I scanned and did some heavy correction. The trouble is, it sat around so long I don’t remember what camera it’s from. The film is so dark I can’t make out any edge markings or frame numbers either. After I scan some other found film I may be able to do a “Cat In The Hat” and figure out which film it’s not and hopefully narrow it down.
Update 25 September 2019: I take snapshots with my phone when I find film and I think this is from a Canon Z115. I still don’t remember when or where I acquired it but it’s a start.
I usually don’t post all of the found images from a roll but these tell a cool story.
I guessed the order based on progress I could see. Some are probably off but close enough.
Kodak Color Plus 200 scanned on a Canon CanoScan 9000f at 2400DPI and resized for the blog. Any edits are in the image file names.
A little more than half way done with the scanning. If I see something interesting, I’ll add it to the post.
It speaks well for this camera that even with the shutter malfunction, giving a useful format of 36mm wide X 12mm high, I got some usable images. Most are sharpened a bit – they’re cropped to about 25% of normal area.
Kodak-Alaris Color Plus 200. I’m glad Kodak-Alaris re-introduced Color Plus. Usually, Gold 200 is what’s available in the US. Color Plus is good film for really cheap. I like it better than the Gold — it isn’t as saturated so images are more WYSIWYG. I can always add saturation in post if that’s what the subject calls for.
Scanned with a Canon CanoScan 9000f at 2400DPI.
Everything black is blue.
This image was in the video but this is before I cropped & cleaned up. There’s a head in the upper left. He noticed I was shooting a film camera and we talked a bit. His name’s Siddho and he’s a photographer in Santa Fe.
A shout out to Bob for giving me the film. He’s the same guy who lent me his Nikon FM.
I’ll start with an image that’s in the video. I just metered the scene without compensating for the strong back light. This is what I got:
Using the scanner adjustment to compensate. I can see them but the background is brighter (don’t care) and they look hazy (do care). This is the result:
I tried the Photoshop merge, the same wizard that let’s you create a panorama. It did not cover itself in glory. Several manual variations later, I came up with this:
I may be able to get something better using layers with a selective erase (I got better results putting the darker layer one top and varying the transparency, which seems counter-intuitive to me) but I’m not sure it won’t look like modern HDR-that-doesn’t-look-real images.