Tag Archives: viewfinder

Tougodo Hit Teardown

Camera video with images is here.

The camera was working on bulb (B) most of the time but not instant (I). The lens was in dire need of cleaning too.

This isn’t a complete tear-down. I didn’t open the viewfinder or remove the wind knob. This started just as notes for myself so there are some gaps in the images. I’ll try to fill in with text instructions.

Remove the lens ring inside the body. It's a left hand thread. I couldn't get a lens wrench past the film gate so I used a couple of small screwdrivers.

Remove the lens ring inside the body. It’s a left hand thread. I couldn’t get a lens wrench past the film gate so I used a couple of small screwdrivers.


The lens ring also holds the inner copper (?) body. It won't quite come out without removing the wind knob but it wasn't necessary for getting to the shutter & lens.

The lens ring also holds the inner copper (?) body. It won’t quite come out without removing the wind knob but it wasn’t necessary for getting to the shutter & lens.


The lens/shutter assembly comes out after removing the ring. The little screw is the Instant/Bulb selector. It didn't need to come off but I didn't know that at the time. The trim plate acts as a washer so it might be part of the lens distance as well as being cosmetic.

The lens/shutter assembly comes out after removing the ring. The little screw is the Instant/Bulb selector. It didn’t need to come off but I didn’t know that at the time. The trim plate acts as a washer so it might be part of the lens distance as well as being cosmetic.


The lens surround is press-fitted to the shutter. A gentle squeeze to the shutter body near the I/B selector (there's a little bump out on the shutter body) while pulling with your thumbnail near the shutter switch will pop it off.

The lens surround is press-fitted to the shutter. A gentle squeeze to the shutter body near the I/B selector (there’s a little bump out on the shutter body) while pulling with your thumbnail near the shutter switch will pop it off.


There's the culprit. The spring had come off of its post. Sitting there without tension for however many years may be why my shutter is fast. If it didn't need cleaning (and if I wasn't curious) I could have put the spring on the post and reassembled here.

There’s the culprit. The spring had come off of its post. Sitting there without tension for however many years may be why my shutter is fast. If it didn’t need cleaning (and if I wasn’t curious) I could have put the spring on the post and reassembled here.


The I/B selector screw screws into this springy copper bit. The springy bit provides friction so the selector doesn't flop around. The end of the screw blocks the spring post on the inner (brass) shutter to provide bulb.

The I/B selector screw screws into this springy copper bit. The springy bit provides friction so the selector doesn’t flop around. The end of the screw blocks the spring post on the inner (brass) shutter to provide bulb.


The big brass screw holds the outer shutter and the outer shutter return spring. The upper part of the spring presses against the shutter body and the lower part presses against the edge of the outer shutter blade (the black part). See the previous image for its proper location.

The big brass screw holds the outer shutter and the outer shutter return spring. The upper part of the spring presses against the shutter body and the lower part presses against the edge of the outer shutter blade (the black part). See the previous image for its proper location.


The copper springy bit. This is reversed from how it goes in. The round part goes in first toward the back of the shutter body, away from the lens.

The copper springy bit. This is reversed from how it goes in. The round part goes in first toward the back of the shutter body, away from the lens.


The inner shutter pivots on this flatter brass screw. It has an unthreaded part that acts as a spacer and shaft for the shutter.

The inner shutter pivots on this flatter brass screw. It has an unthreaded part that acts as a spacer and shaft for the shutter.


With the inner shutter removed, you can see the aperture. It's held in with the small brass screw.

With the inner shutter removed, you can see the aperture. It’s held in with the small brass screw.


Finally, all the way to the bottom. The screw also acts as a spacer for the aperture. That's some quality blackening on the aperture.

Finally, all the way to the bottom. The screw also acts as a spacer for the aperture. That’s some quality blackening on the aperture.

Not shown: 1) Cleaned the shutter parts. I used cotton swabs and lighter fluid. 2) Re-blackened the aperture with a permanent marker. 3) Cleaned the lens front and back with lens cleaner. I doubt if it is coated so window cleaner might be OK.

I tried pre-fitting the inner shutter screw but I couldn't seem to get the screw lined up with the hole in the aperture.

I tried pre-fitting the inner shutter screw but I couldn’t seem to get the screw lined up with the hole in the aperture.


Instead, I used a tapered lens wrench piece to line up the aperture in the inner shutter and the aperture and then inserted the screw.

Instead, I used a tapered lens wrench piece to line up the aperture in the inner shutter and the aperture and then inserted the screw.


That’s pretty much it. Do the steps in reverse to reassemble. Before I put the lens/shutter assembly back on the body I did shutter speed tests.

This is a sequence of stills from a 240 frames per second video. I did about 12 shutter tests. Shutter opening didn't vary much - most were open for four frames.

This is a sequence of stills from a 240 frames per second video. I did about 12 shutter tests. Shutter opening didn’t vary much – most were open for four frames.

1/240 frames per second = 0.004166666666667 seconds per frame (~4.2ms).
Open for 4 frames = shutter open for 0.016666666666667 (~16.7ms).
Turn it into a nice shutter speed style fraction: 1/X = 0.0167. X = 60.
If I’d been thinking, since 240 is a multiple of 60 and 4 and the shutter was open for 4 frames, I could have just done it in my head. Duh.

In my defense, I do this for a lot of old, slow shutters and it’s rarely this clean.

52 Cameras: Tougodo Hit




Camera-wiki.org has a great page on the history of Tougodo (sometimes spelled Togodo).

A tear-down post is here.

Not much to show that’s not in the video. If I get crazy and try again, I’ll post more here.

Ilford SFX 200. Spooky backyard tree is spookier with ND & red filters (3 stops).

Ilford SFX 200. Spooky backyard tree is spookier with ND & red filters (3 stops).


Kodak T-MAX 100. The truck window tint was just the right amount of filter.

Kodak T-MAX 100. The truck window tint was just the right amount of filter.

52 Cameras: Apple QuickTake 200 Viewfinder Parallax

A YouTube viewer asked about the parallax error when using the clip-on optical viewfinder. I did a quick & dirty experiment to find out. Original Quicktake 200 post is here.

The 3 focus ranges are 9-13cm for close-up, 45-90cm for portrait, & 90cm-infinity for landscape. The manual says, “IMPORTANT Do not use the close-up focus when you use the viewfinder. It is not accurate.” I didn’t bother with the close up setting but the next worst parallax would be the nearest focus of the portrait setting. The manual also says, “Estimate the focal distance from the front surface of the LCD screen to the object being photographed.” The LCD is on the back so I guess they mean its surface.

I put this on the wall in the kitchen.

Sometimes, science is ugly.

Sometimes, science is ugly.


I put the camera on a small tripod, and measured the distance to the wall so the LCD was 45cm away. I looked as straight through the viewfinder as I could and held still while M slid her finger along the ruler toward the center until I could see it. We repeated that for left, right, top, and bottom. The measurements are just relative to each other, not meaningful in themselves.

Left: 29cm, Right: 67cm, Top: 10cm, Bottom: 37cm

Next, I snapped a picture with the camera in the same place. Ignore the date & time – I didn’t set the camera’s clock.

I used composite out to the old TV instead of digging out the old laptop and Smartmedia floppy adapter.

I used composite out to the old TV instead of digging out the old laptop and Smartmedia floppy adapter.


The image captured these measurements.

Left: 28cm, Right: 60cm, Top: 13cm, Bottom: 38cm

I was a little off reading the ruler. This diagram shows the relationship of the viewfinder view and the sensor image.

Pretty wide angle and not too bad for a cheap plastic clip-on viewfinder.

Pretty wide angle and not too bad for a cheap plastic clip-on viewfinder.